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40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang.
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © Rockfax

FA. P.Finclaire, S.Lloyd, T.Burrows 30/Jan/1997.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dave LJ 1 Jul Lead O/S
with Tony Ardin
with Tony Ardin
Hidden 23 Jun AltLd O/S
afterthesend 31 May Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 31 May 2nd rpt
Dougie 2 Sep, 2019 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
with Pete Finklaire
Bruise Apprentice 4 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S P2. This pitch will shave years off your life if you manage to safely lead it. Gear is for display purposes only.
P2. This pitch will shave years off your life if you manage to safely lead it. Gear is for display purposes only.
matt1024 4 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S Led pitch one, enjoyable hauling on steep jugs (with a slightly spicy finish). Pitch two was serious and quite difficult.
Led pitch one, enjoyable hauling on steep jugs (with a slightly spicy finish). Pitch two was serious and quite difficult.
Francescaparratt 14 Jul, 2019 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2019 2nd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
monsteratt 13 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Did in combination with Bee line first pitch. Lead second pitch which is a nice wall climb with good crimps.
with Sam, Tom, Paul
Did in combination with Bee line first pitch. Lead second pitch which is a nice wall climb with good crimps.
with Sam, Tom, Paul
Rafal Malczyk u 11 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
with Michael Jenei
elfka 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd Led 2nd pitch
with Owen James
Led 2nd pitch
with Owen James
tobydunford 16 Sep, 2018 2nd β
with Poole Alex
with Poole Alex
ClimbingAlex u 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Well worth doing, definitely 2 stars. Did it in a oner, good gear is slightly spaced in the top half - didn't spy the "Good wire" pocket!
Well worth doing, definitely 2 stars. Did it in a oner, good gear is slightly spaced in the top half - didn't spy the "Good wire" pocket!
brian watson 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt P2
with John Anthony
P2
with John Anthony
john1 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S glad i got the first pitch,good climb
glad i got the first pitch,good climb
feilx 12 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Fiona
with Fiona
slowmotion 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S One pitch. ...seagull nesting on belay
with feilx
One pitch. ...seagull nesting on belay
with feilx
Flavio 13 Oct, 2017 2nd
Hidden 13 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
foostu4 4 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
cdpuk 19 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
RobScarisbrick 19 Aug, 2017 Lead
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 2nd β
overbeyond 14 Aug, 2017 TR β
Adam Bosworth ? Jul, 2017 Lead
LucaC 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S P2. Pretty serious, wouldn't argue with E1 5a taking into account the unprotected start, dubious rock and rubbish fiddly small gear on the top pitch.
P2. Pretty serious, wouldn't argue with E1 5a taking into account the unprotected start, dubious rock and rubbish fiddly small gear on the top pitch.
andycash 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Wouldn't class the top pitch as good quality solid rock!
with LucaC
Wouldn't class the top pitch as good quality solid rock!
with LucaC
ian bryant 1 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
The Grist 21 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 21 Feb, 2017 Lead Enjoyed very much, done as one pitch. Adventurous feel due to dubious looking rock and not much protection.
with Mark Grist
Enjoyed very much, done as one pitch. Adventurous feel due to dubious looking rock and not much protection.
with Mark Grist
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
cem 8 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Stroppy 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S In a oner
with RKirke
In a oner
with RKirke
RKirke 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Mike Weatherill 12 Sep, 2016 Lead
with Eddy
with Eddy
Andrew Sloan 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch.
with Agnes
Led 1st pitch.
with Agnes
Hidden 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
mjeffery 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Sophie Nunn 26 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt In 1 pitch
with Sion, Andy J
In 1 pitch
with Sion, Andy J
Bruise Apprentice 29 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Lead P1 clean but had to back off at the belay due to a large, aggressive seagull protecting a nest full of chicks at the belay boulder. There is a red DMM hex and DMM Wallnut 2 with snap gates attached for anyone brave enough to tackle that seagull!
Lead P1 clean but had to back off at the belay due to a large, aggressive seagull protecting a nest full of chicks at the belay boulder. There is a red DMM hex and DMM Wallnut 2 with snap gates attached for anyone brave enough to tackle that seagull!
Dohnny_Jawes 12 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Pero 20 Sep, 2015 2nd
cem 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Good route. Led both pitches: thought the second was easier than the first, but there you go.
with Pero
Good route. Led both pitches: thought the second was easier than the first, but there you go.
with Pero
Thinker01 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Lead P2
Lead P2
halfwaythere 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Led easier first pitch Enjoyed cheeky start
with mark
Led easier first pitch Enjoyed cheeky start
with mark
TomRiddelsdell 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd β Lead first pitch. Shane placed the first piece of gear before downclimbing when it started raining and we decided to switch pitches
Lead first pitch. Shane placed the first piece of gear before downclimbing when it started raining and we decided to switch pitches
islandlynx 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p2. Interesting route, good contrasting pitches. Route on the second half of p2 is not totally obvious, I went up on the right of the undercut jug. The mentioned jug in a pocket had a birds nest in, made placing gear tricky.
Led p2. Interesting route, good contrasting pitches. Route on the second half of p2 is not totally obvious, I went up on the right of the undercut jug. The mentioned jug in a pocket had a birds nest in, made placing gear tricky.
richardashe 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Russtygibbons 7 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 7 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden ? Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
mattprince 13 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
ollie1 25 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
pearson9596 21 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
philhilo 16 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Even with the full triple rack, on a single, with 8 layers (4 coats) this felt stiff for the grade. Bottom pitch ace fun. Top pitch a bit squeezed in and not obvious and gear pretty scarce at crucial moments + loose in parts.
with heg
Even with the full triple rack, on a single, with 8 layers (4 coats) this felt stiff for the grade. Bottom pitch ace fun. Top pitch a bit squeezed in and not obvious and gear pretty scarce at crucial moments + loose in parts.
with heg
ian d f 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S as one pitch
as one pitch
onlyfoddington 14 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Some pretty fun bits interspersed in some poorer bits.
Some pretty fun bits interspersed in some poorer bits.
Shane Willis 6 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1, thought the moves were awesome! Si found the second pitch difficult to read and found little in the way of good gear.
Led pitch 1, thought the moves were awesome! Si found the second pitch difficult to read and found little in the way of good gear.
Cheese Monkey 4 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Fantastic. led p2 which was spectacular in particular, solid rock on the meat of it and great pumpy climbing, loads of gear...
with Rich R
Fantastic. led p2 which was spectacular in particular, solid rock on the meat of it and great pumpy climbing, loads of gear...
with Rich R
joedoherty 19 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Fantastic first pitch!
with Anna Gibson
Fantastic first pitch!
with Anna Gibson
elfka 19 Nov, 2014 2nd
with Joe Doherty
with Joe Doherty
brian watson 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P1
with Steve Newman
P1
with Steve Newman
Hidden 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd
mdjb 3 Aug, 2014 -
duncan 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Decent route, a bit scruffy. One star.
Decent route, a bit scruffy. One star.
rustaldo 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Somewhat meh. First pitch was fun and juggy, think we got a bit lost on P2, rock was a bit dodgy.
Somewhat meh. First pitch was fun and juggy, think we got a bit lost on P2, rock was a bit dodgy.
Alex Hallam 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Buzz, buzz, buzz lightyear to the rescue! If I were still a boy scout I would have definitely earned my seagull herding badge. Lucked out and got the first pitch but then sat in excrement for the next 20mins so on balance it was fine.
Buzz, buzz, buzz lightyear to the rescue! If I were still a boy scout I would have definitely earned my seagull herding badge. Lucked out and got the first pitch but then sat in excrement for the next 20mins so on balance it was fine.
Julian Prieto 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
Monkey_Alan 17 May, 2014 2nd rpt
CurlyStevo 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could just be E1 IMO.
with clipskipper
I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could just be E1 IMO.
with clipskipper
AlexD 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1.
with AlexD
Led P1.
with AlexD
Hidden 11 Jan, 2014 2nd
Bob M u 11 Jan, 2014 2nd Sustained interest throughout. Quite runout on pitch 2 - glad to be on the blunt end.
with Pete Finklaire, Derby Grit
Sustained interest throughout. Quite runout on pitch 2 - glad to be on the blunt end.
with Pete Finklaire, Derby Grit
scott titt ??, 2014 -
Hidden 11 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon 29 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S P1 only.
with Matt Sumpster
P1 only.
with Matt Sumpster
waldenmatt 29 Oct, 2013 2nd 2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.
2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Kerm ? Sep, 2013 AltLd
LukeyG 25 Jun, 2013 Lead
Mark Warnett ? Jun, 2013 Lead O/S pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch
pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch
mike.moss 8 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 8 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2
Led P2
Helen Gibson 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !
with Alice
led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !
with Alice
Hidden 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2012 Lead
dan gibson 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with andrew porter
with andrew porter
AJ007 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
paultaylor 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
will moy 2 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with paul taylor
with paul taylor
Graham Westbrook 22 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with wi11
with wi11
wi11 22 May, 2012 AltLd O/S P2
P2
GarethHall 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch
Led 2nd pitch
paddygoodwinlondon 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
with Gareth Hall
Sophie Nunn 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch, good route!
with AlexD
Led 2nd pitch, good route!
with AlexD
AlexD 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 15 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.
with Ed Babington
Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 15 May, 2011 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Hidden 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
Marti999 u 9 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S very good on excellent rock.
very good on excellent rock.
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Behemoth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)