Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head height overhang.
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up onto the wall, move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the faultline and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and up to a pocket. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © Rockfax

FA. P.Finclaire, S.Lloyd, T.Burrows 30/Jan/1997.


Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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