UKC Logbook - 'Sweet SA'

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A challenging climb that is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a ledge. Continue to the faultline - belay over to the left next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up and left to below a groove. Boldy climb the grey wall up right and then back left to the groove. Follow this with difficulty past an old peg to the top. © Rockfax

FA. F.Clarke, Al Alvarez 1963.

Ticklists

Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Routes for MCI

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User	Date		Notes
ThomCousins	15 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Al forgot the belay in the middle so we did it in one mammoth pitch - no major repurcussions for this though!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Al forgot the belay in the middle so we did it in one mammoth pitch - no major repurcussions for this though!
hawkridge812	14 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Oli lead the first 5 meters of pitch 1 placing one cam, at that point I was hit by 3 or 4 rouge waves which completely sent me flying. Fortunately The cam held and Oli remained on the wall. He then climbed another 2 meters before making a mid way panic anchor (to save me) consisting 3 nuts and 2 cams, he then ignored its existence and secured himself to the rock with a single nut. Soaking wet I followed up to him and lead the remainder of pitch 1. Ollie joined me at the anchor and kindly suggested I lead pitch 2 as ‘he didn’t fancy it’. Begrudgingly I lead pitch 2 soaking wet with an interesting chalk paste made by combining sea water and chalk, it was unsurprisingly ineffective. Despite being soaking wet in mid November the climbing was bloody good. Trudged home in the pitch black considering life choices and friends.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Oli lead the first 5 meters of pitch 1 placing one cam, at that point I was hit by 3 or 4 rouge waves which completely sent me flying. Fortunately The cam held and Oli remained on the wall. He then climbed another 2 meters before making a mid way panic anchor (to save me) consisting 3 nuts and 2 cams, he then ignored its existence and secured himself to the rock with a single nut. Soaking wet I followed up to him and lead the remainder of pitch 1. Ollie joined me at the anchor and kindly suggested I lead pitch 2 as ‘he didn’t fancy it’. Begrudgingly I lead pitch 2 soaking wet with an interesting chalk paste made by combining sea water and chalk, it was unsurprisingly ineffective. Despite being soaking wet in mid November the climbing was bloody good. Trudged home in the pitch black considering life choices and friends.
Ramon Marin	5 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove.