UKC Logbook - 'Black Sunshine'

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well travelled and solid route.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb a scoop just left of the big boulder, then move leftwards around a roof. Traverse 8m back right to a corner and slab. The slab leads to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 18m. Climb to an overhang, traverse 3m right and pull over. Continue to the top and an earthy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Titt, J.Thornby 24/Oct/1971.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , SW Climbs - Swanage , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User	Date		Notes
steve_gibbs	30 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Note the 2012 Dorset Rockfax has both the wrong topo and wrong description for P1, as this is Dark Side of the Sun E1. The correct start, as others have stated, is at the hanging corner with flake shield, around 4-5m to the left. This goes at VS 4c, permitting an amenable exit right onto the airy traverse.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Note the 2012 Dorset Rockfax has both the wrong topo and wrong description for P1, as this is Dark Side of the Sun E1. The correct start, as others have stated, is at the hanging corner with flake shield, around 4-5m to the left. This goes at VS 4c, permitting an amenable exit right onto the airy traverse.
Budge	18 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Possible to traverse in from the left (at a slightly higher grade - or was that just me?) and join the route below the roof, if the sea makes access impossible. Great Route	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Possible to traverse in from the left (at a slightly higher grade - or was that just me?) and join the route below the roof, if the sea makes access impossible. Great Route