A hugely impressive route with two contrasting pitches. If the second falls off the top wall they will land in Brittany! Start beneath the big leaning cracks left of the groove of Buccaneer.
1) 5b, 20m. Head up the cracks in the left wall and thug to the faultline, passing a large poised block. Belay on the left.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb a curving crack on the left to a niche. Gain the roof then move out left with difficulty to reach the sensational wall above. Move up and left to an exit corner as for Sinbad. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, Richard Crewe, T.Tanswell 8.2.1975. FFA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 1.1979.
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