Rockfax Description
A wonderful and hugely-impressive route with two completely differing pitches. If the second falls off the top wall they will land in Brittany! Start beneath the big leaning cracks in the side of the huge groove of Buccaneer.1) 5b, 20m. Ascend the cracks in the left wall and thug up to the fault-line, passing a large poised block. Belay on a ledge to the left.2) 6a, 25m. Climb a curving crack on the left to a niche. Gain the roof above, then move out left with difficulty to reach the sensational wall above (peg). Move up and left to an exit corner as for Sinbad. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, Richard Crewe, T.Tanswell 8.2.1975. FFA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 1.1979.
Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist
User | Date | Notes | |
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ian bryant | 12 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Interesting comments and votes here; didn't feel like 6a to me either (thankfully!) but it was hard enough to commit to blind holds over the roof (good rest before doing so though). 1st pitch deceptively hard but a great belay ledge. | βeta? |
Show beta
βeta: Interesting comments and votes here; didn't feel like 6a to me either (thankfully!) but it was hard enough to commit to blind holds over the roof (good rest before doing so though). 1st pitch deceptively hard but a great belay ledge. |
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feilx | 22 Jan, 2007 |
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βeta: Excellent route, did it in one long pitch (and got a lot of drag) | βeta? |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, did it in one long pitch (and got a lot of drag) |
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