UKC Logbook - 'Buccaneer'

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb up the narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets the third star for the beauty of the line, the climbing itself being just a touch dirty. Climb the corner-crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left to the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.1969. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.1978.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

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User	Date		Notes
j_w_j	14 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: awesome route, done in one pitch! fell from the last hard move... twice... if anyone gets the red wild country out from the jam round from the roof let me know	βeta?
Show beta βeta: awesome route, done in one pitch! fell from the last hard move... twice... if anyone gets the red wild country out from the jam round from the roof let me know
Chris_Tee	16 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route!
Climber_Bill	25 Nov, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic!
Kyuzo	28 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset.
kevin stephens	7 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience