UKC

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb up the narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets the third star for the beauty of the line, the climbing itself being just a touch dirty. Climb the corner-crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left to the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.1969. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.1978.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Dorset Good Trad D-E2

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User Date Notes
Chris_Tee 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route!
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βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route!
Strontium Dog 25 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic!
βeta?
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βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic!
Kyuzo 28 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset.
βeta?
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βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset.
kevin stephens 7 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience
βeta?
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βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 54
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Conger

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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