Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Superbly sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a thin crack with a rope sling at the midway horizontal break. Climb the first few easy-angled metres to the start of the thin crack. Make hard but well-protected moves up the crack to the horizontal break - fixed rope sling. Move left, then up, past good holds and a peg before gaining a thin crack-line on the left. Follow the crack-line past four more pegs to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 05/Jun/1983.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Cool Names
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climber_Bill | 25 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Melpomene
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)