UKC

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The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

45m.

Rockfax Description
Superbly sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a thin crack with a rope sling at the midway horizontal break. Climb the first few easy-angled metres to the start of the thin crack. Make hard but well-protected moves up the crack to the horizontal break - fixed rope sling. Move left, then up, past good holds and a peg before gaining a thin crack-line on the left. Follow the crack-line past four more pegs to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 05/Jun/1983.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Cool Names , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 8 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Top-rope solo as this is the line of the abseil. Expected ab to go down my intended route, Ocean Boulevard, but that route is further left (facing in) below the gearing up gulley. Wow. Amazing climbing on very steep terrain. I fell several times and despite a few redirects I couldn’t reach the wall without kicking out. Crux went ok once found the right beta but very sustained after thread. Thread reasonable condition but the pegs all looked worthless. As previously mentioned, fiddling in gear, though good, would raise the grade somewhat. Excellent route, but beyond my endurance level.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top-rope solo as this is the line of the abseil. Expected ab to go down my intended route, Ocean Boulevard, but that route is further left (facing in) below the gearing up gulley. Wow. Amazing climbing on very steep terrain. I fell several times and despite a few redirects I couldn’t reach the wall without kicking out. Crux went ok once found the right beta but very sustained after thread. Thread reasonable condition but the pegs all looked worthless. As previously mentioned, fiddling in gear, though good, would raise the grade somewhat. Excellent route, but beyond my endurance level.
Michael Porter 8 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the thread today, which is actually an old wire that’s been threaded. Top 2 pegs still good and the climbing has eased a bit by then. Lower pegs not great but excellent gear available anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the thread today, which is actually an old wire that’s been threaded. Top 2 pegs still good and the climbing has eased a bit by then. Lower pegs not great but excellent gear available anyway.
Climber_Bill 25 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5.

Logged Ascents

115 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 28
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Great Shark Hunt

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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