UKC Logbook - 'Mother Africa'

45m.

Rockfax Description
Superbly sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a thin crack with a rope sling at the midway horizontal break. Climb the first few easy-angled metres to the start of the thin crack. Make hard but well-protected moves up the crack to the horizontal break - fixed rope sling. Move left, then up, past good holds and a peg before gaining a thin crack-line on the left. Follow the crack-line past four more pegs to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 05/Jun/1983.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Cool Names , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Toms Top E3/E4/E5's of the South West , Definitive *** Swanage

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User	Date		Notes
Kiddie68	8 Mar, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Top-rope solo as this is the line of the abseil. Expected ab to go down my intended route, Ocean Boulevard, but that route is further left (facing in) below the gearing up gulley. Wow. Amazing climbing on very steep terrain. I fell several times and despite a few redirects I couldn’t reach the wall without kicking out. Crux went ok once found the right beta but very sustained after thread. Thread reasonable condition but the pegs all looked worthless. As previously mentioned, fiddling in gear, though good, would raise the grade somewhat. Excellent route, but beyond my endurance level.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Top-rope solo as this is the line of the abseil. Expected ab to go down my intended route, Ocean Boulevard, but that route is further left (facing in) below the gearing up gulley. Wow. Amazing climbing on very steep terrain. I fell several times and despite a few redirects I couldn’t reach the wall without kicking out. Crux went ok once found the right beta but very sustained after thread. Thread reasonable condition but the pegs all looked worthless. As previously mentioned, fiddling in gear, though good, would raise the grade somewhat. Excellent route, but beyond my endurance level.
Michael Porter	8 Oct, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Replaced the thread today, which is actually an old wire that’s been threaded. Top 2 pegs still good and the climbing has eased a bit by then. Lower pegs not great but excellent gear available anyway.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Replaced the thread today, which is actually an old wire that’s been threaded. Top 2 pegs still good and the climbing has eased a bit by then. Lower pegs not great but excellent gear available anyway.
Climber_Bill	25 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5.