Rockfax Description
Start at a small corner, 15m left of the huge block sat under the roof. Unusually thuggy but non-technical climbing on pitch 2. Good gear is available.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge at the faultline.
1a) Merlin, E1 5b. A good alternative. Start to the left and head up to a roof before heading right on undercuts to a steep groove. The groove gives stiff moves that lead to the faultline and a belay at the top of the first pitch of October Lady.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the crack above, then undercut the long roof rightwards to an exposed exit groove (thread). Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Gunn, George Hounsome 25/Oct/1975.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 29 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Second pitch certainly merits 2 stars, some pretty mean thrutching combined with 'character building' exposure makes it one to remember (if only it could be longer!). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second pitch certainly merits 2 stars, some pretty mean thrutching combined with 'character building' exposure makes it one to remember (if only it could be longer!). |
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ian bryant | 14 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: great route. continuously good climbing all the way to the usual choss at the top! very pumpy second pitch - don't look down! | βeta? | |
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βeta: great route. continuously good climbing all the way to the usual choss at the top! very pumpy second pitch - don't look down! |
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psicobloc | 7 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The second pitch is mind blowing – go and do it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The second pitch is mind blowing – go and do it! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)