UKC

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The left arete of the huge roofs of The Fin is exposed and gives extraordinary climbing. One of the best VSs in the Ruckle.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb a crack to a small ledge. Traverse right and up a short corner to a sentry box and belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse right along the faultline for 5m, then climb rightwards to gain the arete. Follow the arete to an overhang. Pull over and climb past a large flake to an easy exit groove. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 14/May/1978.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Classic VS's , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fidget 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I tried the traverse with feet in big break first, but found the hand holds too vague, and discovered the lower traverse was easier. Either way, you've still got to pull up onto the face, which is the bit I failed on! (I could see the thread runner... far above me...) Must go back when my elbow's recovered and I've got my strength back.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I tried the traverse with feet in big break first, but found the hand holds too vague, and discovered the lower traverse was easier. Either way, you've still got to pull up onto the face, which is the bit I failed on! (I could see the thread runner... far above me...) Must go back when my elbow's recovered and I've got my strength back.
Bob M 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think the way to do the traverse is with your feet in the big break. Bridge up out of back of the sentry box and fix a good high runner. Shuffle across on good footholds until you are about half way to the arete, then pull up on to the wall above. Now you can stand in balance, fix a thread runner, enjoy the exposure and pose for photos. A memorable pitch and probably the best VS at Swanage.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the way to do the traverse is with your feet in the big break. Bridge up out of back of the sentry box and fix a good high runner. Shuffle across on good footholds until you are about half way to the arete, then pull up on to the wall above. Now you can stand in balance, fix a thread runner, enjoy the exposure and pose for photos. A memorable pitch and probably the best VS at Swanage.
Fidget 28 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Following on from Jason's comment, another significant block has come off the traverse, check out the picture! - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34302 I think the rest of that break is fairly solid, but you now have to make the move up from the break a little further left. Great climbing, but I completely failed in trying to pull up from the fault onto the face/arete so my partner had to take over. Personally I thought that move was harder than 4c, but I'm out of practise so not sure. The traverse is the best bit, (beta spoiler....) you need to do a hand traverse along the lower ledge, the foot holds don't look like much but they're actually pretty reasonable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Following on from Jason's comment, another significant block has come off the traverse, check out the picture! - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34302 I think the rest of that break is fairly solid, but you now have to make the move up from the break a little further left. Great climbing, but I completely failed in trying to pull up from the fault onto the face/arete so my partner had to take over. Personally I thought that move was harder than 4c, but I'm out of practise so not sure. The traverse is the best bit, (beta spoiler....) you need to do a hand traverse along the lower ledge, the foot holds don't look like much but they're actually pretty reasonable.
Ewan 7 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one felt easy for 4b, starting pitch 2 was 4c, the rest was 4b but very exposed and great gear all the way, very atmospheric with big seas below !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch one felt easy for 4b, starting pitch 2 was 4c, the rest was 4b but very exposed and great gear all the way, very atmospheric with big seas below !

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Route of Interest
Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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