45m, 2 pitches. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Similar quality to Gypsy (page 291 ) with some nice steep climbing. Start at a right-facing corner. High in the grade.1) 5a, 12m. Climb the corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks above, passing the fault-line with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19/May/1974.
Ticklists
Ultimate E1 ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bruise Apprentice | 29 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. |
|||
| McBirdy | 14 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. |
|||
| ian bryant | 6 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: very enjoyable | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: very enjoyable |
|||
| feilx | 31 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. |
|||
| kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 |
|||
Logged Ascents
142 users have logged this
13 users have this on their wishlistPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Thunderball
Grade: E1 5b ***(Boulder Ruckle)