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45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Similar quality to Gypsy (page 291 ) with some nice steep climbing. Start at a right-facing corner. High in the grade.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks above, passing the fault-line with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19/May/1974.

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User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 29 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it.
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βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it.
McBirdy 14 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great.
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βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great.
ian bryant 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very enjoyable
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βeta: very enjoyable
feilx 31 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1.
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βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1.
kevin stephens 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2
βeta?
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βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2

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Thunderball

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)