Rockfax Description
Similar quality to Gypsy with some nice steep climbing.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the right-facing corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks, passing the faultline with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19/May/1974.
Ticklists
Ultimate E1 ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bruise Apprentice | 29 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. |
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| McBirdy | 14 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. |
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| ian bryant | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: very enjoyable | βeta? | |
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βeta: very enjoyable |
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| psicobloc | 31 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. |
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| kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Traverse of the Gods
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)