Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
FA. Barry Annette, P.Kemp 1963.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| soph | 9 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves. |
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| Andy Hobson | 10 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route. |
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| GrahamD | 8 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around. |
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| Filou | 2 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS??? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS??? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)