UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile climb, although the finish is very unstable and a pre-placed rope should be left down the final slope. The finish is found 5 fence posts west of the third wall, where a gap through the gorse leads to stakes on the right. Run the rope over a semi-buried boulder in the top of the slope. Start at a pointed boulder.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb the short rounded arete and then move up and right to a corner which is followed to the faultline.
2) 4c, 18m. Move back left to the corner and climb to a roof. Traverse right carefully to a ledge on the arete. Traverse back left over the roof to another ledge and climb the groove above (peg). © Rockfax

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good climb. Top out not that bad by Swanage standards. Couldn't find a stake so belayed sat in the bushes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climb. Top out not that bad by Swanage standards. Couldn't find a stake so belayed sat in the bushes.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 5
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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