The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile climb, although the finish is very unstable and a pre-placed rope should be left down the final slope. The finish is found 5 fence posts west of the third wall, where a gap through the gorse leads to stakes on the right. Run the rope over a semi-buried boulder in the top of the slope. Start at a pointed boulder.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb the short rounded arete and then move up and right to a corner which is followed to the faultline.
2) 4c, 18m. Move back left to the corner and climb to a roof. Traverse right carefully to a ledge on the arete. Traverse back left over the roof to another ledge and climb the groove above (peg). © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Iain Weymouth | 16 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good climb. Top out not that bad by Swanage standards. Couldn't find a stake so belayed sat in the bushes. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good climb. Top out not that bad by Swanage standards. Couldn't find a stake so belayed sat in the bushes. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)