UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine, sustained line with good positions. Start 5m right of The Heidelberg Creature. Climb steeply up parallel cracks and pass a blocky bulge on its left. Follow the hanging corner above past a large overhang at the faultline then head on up to a small overhang. Step left around an arete and follow a thin crack and shallow groove to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Brain Snell, W.Lyons 6.7.1974. FFA. George Hounsome 9.10.1977.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 6 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Made the mistake of 2 pitches and belayed at the old peg rust stains before the step left which was another mistake ! With no microcams the wall was a bit necky. I placed 2 spaced cams, a hopeful 3" and a promising 2" then a pretty good medium nut in the higher crack. Wall holds positive, friction superb and not really pumpy if you get your feet sorted. It would be 3 stars if the bottom 2/3 was a bit less concerning !
Show beta
βeta: Made the mistake of 2 pitches and belayed at the old peg rust stains before the step left which was another mistake ! With no microcams the wall was a bit necky. I placed 2 spaced cams, a hopeful 3" and a promising 2" then a pretty good medium nut in the higher crack. Wall holds positive, friction superb and not really pumpy if you get your feet sorted. It would be 3 stars if the bottom 2/3 was a bit less concerning !
Chris_Tee 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If you own a set of micro cams to protect the headwall it's high E1, if you don't it's maybe worth E2. Certainly no harder than Elysium.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you own a set of micro cams to protect the headwall it's high E1, if you don't it's maybe worth E2. Certainly no harder than Elysium.
matt perks 12 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think this is one of the easier E2's at Swanage. It works well as a single pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think this is one of the easier E2's at Swanage. It works well as a single pitch.
Jon Greengrass 13 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wow! my first route at swanage. Its so steep but yet you don't get pumped, theres jams and bridging rests all over the place so the massive roof on the first pitch is easy. We belayed below the first small roof so didn't see the proper belay til we climbed pitch two and saw the comedy rotting pegs. Top pitch is much harder than the first, technical wall climbing and finger locks and does feel quite sustained hence E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wow! my first route at swanage. Its so steep but yet you don't get pumped, theres jams and bridging rests all over the place so the massive roof on the first pitch is easy. We belayed below the first small roof so didn't see the proper belay til we climbed pitch two and saw the comedy rotting pegs. Top pitch is much harder than the first, technical wall climbing and finger locks and does feel quite sustained hence E2.
kevin stephens 7 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Best enjoyed in one pitch (50 m ropes) if you are careful to avoid rope drag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best enjoyed in one pitch (50 m ropes) if you are careful to avoid rope drag

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Lead
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Route of Interest
The Adventures of Portland Bill

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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