Rockfax Description
A fine, sustained line with good positions. Start 5m right of The Heidelberg Creature. Climb steeply up parallel cracks and pass a blocky bulge on its left. Follow the hanging corner above past a large overhang at the faultline then head on up to a small overhang. Step left around an arete and follow a thin crack and shallow groove to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Brain Snell, W.Lyons 6.7.1974. FFA. George Hounsome 9.10.1977.
Ultimate E2 ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Iain Weymouth | 6 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Made the mistake of 2 pitches and belayed at the old peg rust stains before the step left which was another mistake ! With no microcams the wall was a bit necky. I placed 2 spaced cams, a hopeful 3" and a promising 2" then a pretty good medium nut in the higher crack. Wall holds positive, friction superb and not really pumpy if you get your feet sorted. It would be 3 stars if the bottom 2/3 was a bit less concerning ! | ||
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βeta: Made the mistake of 2 pitches and belayed at the old peg rust stains before the step left which was another mistake ! With no microcams the wall was a bit necky. I placed 2 spaced cams, a hopeful 3" and a promising 2" then a pretty good medium nut in the higher crack. Wall holds positive, friction superb and not really pumpy if you get your feet sorted. It would be 3 stars if the bottom 2/3 was a bit less concerning ! |
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Chris_Tee | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: If you own a set of micro cams to protect the headwall it's high E1, if you don't it's maybe worth E2. Certainly no harder than Elysium. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you own a set of micro cams to protect the headwall it's high E1, if you don't it's maybe worth E2. Certainly no harder than Elysium. |
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matt perks | 12 May, 2005 |
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βeta: I think this is one of the easier E2's at Swanage. It works well as a single pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I think this is one of the easier E2's at Swanage. It works well as a single pitch. |
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Jon Greengrass | 13 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Wow! my first route at swanage. Its so steep but yet you don't get pumped, theres jams and bridging rests all over the place so the massive roof on the first pitch is easy. We belayed below the first small roof so didn't see the proper belay til we climbed pitch two and saw the comedy rotting pegs. Top pitch is much harder than the first, technical wall climbing and finger locks and does feel quite sustained hence E2. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wow! my first route at swanage. Its so steep but yet you don't get pumped, theres jams and bridging rests all over the place so the massive roof on the first pitch is easy. We belayed below the first small roof so didn't see the proper belay til we climbed pitch two and saw the comedy rotting pegs. Top pitch is much harder than the first, technical wall climbing and finger locks and does feel quite sustained hence E2. |
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kevin stephens | 7 May, 2002 |
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βeta: Best enjoyed in one pitch (50 m ropes) if you are careful to avoid rope drag | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Best enjoyed in one pitch (50 m ropes) if you are careful to avoid rope drag |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)