The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
A fine, sustained line with good positions. Start 5m right of The Heidelberg Creature. Climb steeply up parallel cracks and pass a blocky bulge on its left. Follow the hanging corner above past a large overhang at the faultline then head on up to a small overhang. Step left around an arete and follow a thin crack and shallow groove to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Brain Snell, W.Lyons 6.7.1974. FFA. George Hounsome 9.10.1977.
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