Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The wall between the upper sections of The Heidelberg Creature and The Tool. Care needed to avoid rope-drag on pitch 2.
1) 4c, 20m. The first pitch of The Heidelberg Creature.
2) 5b, 25m. Traverse right for 9m and move over the overhang onto the wall above. Climb up right to a crack and small overhang (peg). Traverse left 2m and climb a bulge to a ledge and finish up some thin cracks. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Finklaire, Sue Hazel 20/Mar/2002.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael Chan | 31 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you traverse out all the way under the overhang you’ve gone too far - I needed up on “the tool (bad workman variation). The route pulls through the roof onto the face at about halfway. Not 9m like the guidebook says. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If you traverse out all the way under the overhang you’ve gone too far - I needed up on “the tool (bad workman variation). The route pulls through the roof onto the face at about halfway. Not 9m like the guidebook says. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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The Peccary
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)