UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The wall between the upper sections of The Heidelberg Creature and The Tool. Care needed to avoid rope-drag on pitch 2.
1) 4c, 20m. The first pitch of The Heidelberg Creature.
2) 5b, 25m. Traverse right for 9m and move over the overhang onto the wall above. Climb up right to a crack and small overhang (peg). Traverse left 2m and climb a bulge to a ledge and finish up some thin cracks. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Finklaire, Sue Hazel 20/Mar/2002.

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User Date Notes
Michael Chan 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: If you traverse out all the way under the overhang you’ve gone too far - I needed up on “the tool (bad workman variation). The route pulls through the roof onto the face at about halfway. Not 9m like the guidebook says.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you traverse out all the way under the overhang you’ve gone too far - I needed up on “the tool (bad workman variation). The route pulls through the roof onto the face at about halfway. Not 9m like the guidebook says.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tudor Rose

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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