UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An incredibly intimidating line that requires good route finding on the second pitch, which snakes through the upper overhangs. Start 7m right of a large roof-capped corner.
1) 5a, 16m. Pull up through bulges to a rest above. Climb rightwards to an arete, then move around it to a corner that ends at the faultline and a belay.
2) 5b, 19m. Climb the wall on the left, past a small overhang, then move right to below a roof. Pull strenuously through the roof at a break to a corner. Follow this to a final overhang which is passed on its left side. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Bell, T.Goodfellow 11/Jul/1963.

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West Country Climbs , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2

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User Date Notes
Boomanreach 23 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely roof heart flutter
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βeta: Lovely roof heart flutter
mutt 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
βeta?
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βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
Different Steve 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
βeta?
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βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
El Greyo 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.

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Route of Interest
Elysium

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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