Rockfax Description
An incredibly intimidating line that requires good route finding on the second pitch, which snakes through the upper overhangs. Start 7m right of a large roof-capped corner.1) 5a, 16m. Pull up through bulges to a rest above. Climb rightwards to an arete, then move around it to a corner that ends at the fault-line and a belay.2) 5b, 19m. Climb the wall on the left, past a small overhang, then move right to below a roof. Pull strenuously through the roof at a break to a corner. Follow this to a final overhang which is passed on its left side. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax
FA. P.Bell, T.Goodfellow 11/Jul/1963.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ed Babs | 19 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: P1 | βeta? |
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βeta: P1 |
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| mutt | 4 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful. | βeta? |
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βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful. |
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| Different Steve | 23 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right. | βeta? |
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βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right. |
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| El Greyo | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous. | βeta? |
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βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous. |
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Elysium
Grade: E1 5b ***(Boulder Ruckle)