UKC

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The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe and team 16/Jun/1968.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Routes for MCI , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

Feedback

User Date Notes
kfsand 16 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb
Iain Weymouth 13 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp !
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp !
Cdubs 14 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner
Graeme Hammond 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong!
Show beta
βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong!
Owen W-G 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
Neil Adams 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quality Street

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Cormorant Ledge)

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