Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe and team 16/Jun/1968.
Ticklists
Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Routes for MCI , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kfsand | 16 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: We confused the start of Perversion for this line and had a proper nightmare, the description of Jo strangely matches the start of that climb |
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| Iain Weymouth | 13 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp ! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. To exit the top belay stakes I recommend heading east towards the lighthouse, west is longer and more frightening especially when damp ! |
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| Cdubs | 14 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner |
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| Graeme Hammond | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong! |
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| Owen W-G | 23 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base. |
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| Neil Adams | 7 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Lightning Wall
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)