2 pitches. A superb pitch with great positions, good rock and good gear.

Belay in the corner niche, at the top of pitch 1 of Tatra. Various threads available. Treat the rock directly overhead with care. Avoid the dodgy blocks above the belay by traversing out to the arĂȘte and climbing that (gear before reaching the arĂȘte) until you can step back right into the superb corner. Follow this to the top. All solid and with good gear.

There is actually nothing left of the original Tatra Direct put up in 1966 by Tony Willmott and Alan Heppenstall. The top corner was reclimbed by Nigel Coe and Tim Dunsby in 1991 after rockfall at that time!

FA. Pete Finklaire, Laura Trespidi, Sue Hazel 16/Feb/2014.


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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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