Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 3 pitches. The roof on pitch 1 and the exposed hanging grove on pitch 3 lead the excitement on this route. It is possible to climb P1 and P2 together but rope drag could be an issue.
1) Climb through the roof crack to the left of Marmolata ArĂȘte, up the short wall to a ledge.
2) Climb the the short wall directly to another ledge.
3) Crux - climb up and then move left into a hanging groove (poor protection), pull into the steep exposed groove with a small sloper at its base climb up and on to the top.


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Route of Interest
Mother Africa

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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