Rockfax Description
In 2014 a major rockfall destroyed the original start of what was a classic VS. The first pitch is now a lot harder but still worthwhile. Start below the left-hand end of the low overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, then move out right to the hanging arete and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a tiny corner leading up to the faultline.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the tiny corner to the faultline and make a strenuous traverse right along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge. Finish up a short steep corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.

Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arête and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arête.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.

FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Routes for MCI

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