UKC

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
In 2014 a major rockfall destroyed the original start of what was a classic VS. The first pitch is now a lot harder but still worthwhile. Start below the left-hand end of the low overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, then move out right to the hanging arete and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a tiny corner leading up to the faultline.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the tiny corner to the faultline and make a strenuous traverse right along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge. Finish up a short steep corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.

Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arĂȘte and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arĂȘte.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.

FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

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User Date Notes
Storey1991 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you.
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βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you.
Iain Weymouth 25 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s.
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βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s.
ClimbingAlex 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
walshieboy 5 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch

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High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spook

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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