UKC

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There are belay-bolts in above most of the popular climbs. For routes not equiped with bolts, climbers should use a second rope to belay on the trees a short distance back from the edge. The crag is owned by the Tunbridge Wells Commons Conservators and the the rocks are part of the Rusthall Common geological SSSI due to their rock formation and natural erosion features. Local BMC volunteers contributed a significant amount of work on the vegetation clearance project to address overgrown areas. This was very successful and the results can be seen at - http://www.sandstonevolunteers.nildram.co.uk/index.html

Rockfax Description
Crimpy face climbing from the juggy square cut hold to dynamically catch the top lip. Move left slightly and mantel up to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This takes the gently overhanging wall right of Coal Cellar (the corner/hole/scramble up to the top of the crag) and left of Blasphemy on the Conway's buttress. Sit start on the square cut jug and use a range of crimps to flick to the top holds (the grade might be easier for the tall).

https://youtu.be/DMqJA6-_WXM

Tom Gore 22/Sep/2020.

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