UKC

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

12m.

Rockfax Description
A glorious fissure in the shallow corner is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short 'n' sweet cracks. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Macleod 1932.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , CUMC Ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 50 more great HS routes , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Best Belay Spots , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Burbage Valley Circuit VD to VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 22 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A delight. HS 4b due to sinker jams, jugs and big feet. Double your big cams (yellow/blue) or hexes. Very worthwhile.
Show beta
βeta: A delight. HS 4b due to sinker jams, jugs and big feet. Double your big cams (yellow/blue) or hexes. Very worthwhile.
Paul Tomo 24 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I Found it a very good route, Good gear placments & easy jams, VS4b?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I Found it a very good route, Good gear placments & easy jams, VS4b?
The Mountain Goat 26 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you can jam it's HS if you can't its VS. Still a great route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you can jam it's HS if you can't its VS. Still a great route though.
Duz Walker 6 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: VS? Well at -3 celsius, numb beyond the elbows, in horizontal hail and my only large cam 10ft off the deck and 12 below my feet it just about felt that way. Crux at 1/3, find the crockery in the crack and its over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VS? Well at -3 celsius, numb beyond the elbows, in horizontal hail and my only large cam 10ft off the deck and 12 below my feet it just about felt that way. Crux at 1/3, find the crockery in the crack and its over.
shaun walby 31 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route... bomber gear, easy for a VS4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route... bomber gear, easy for a VS4b.
GrahamD 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Its a pleasent route but whoever thinks its VS and therefore a bigger undertaking than Central Groove or Main Wall is having a Larf. HS if you must, but probably better off as a stiff S 4a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its a pleasent route but whoever thinks its VS and therefore a bigger undertaking than Central Groove or Main Wall is having a Larf. HS if you must, but probably better off as a stiff S 4a.
jamiemoss 12 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb but very very easy for VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb but very very easy for VS.
Simon Caldwell 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected, plenty of rests. HS 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well protected, plenty of rests. HS 4b.
helix 17 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i thought it was excellent. HS 4b wouldnt be unfair, but i think could be easy VS too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i thought it was excellent. HS 4b wouldnt be unfair, but i think could be easy VS too.
gav p 19 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Cracking little route. Probably HS though. Made easier by using holds out right on the arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking little route. Probably HS though. Made easier by using holds out right on the arete.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing, but not 3 stars, and doesn\'t really deserve \"one of grits best short cracks\" IMO. Perhaps HS 4b?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing, but not 3 stars, and doesn't really deserve "one of grits best short cracks" IMO. Perhaps HS 4b?

Logged Ascents

2722 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 290
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 264
Votes cast 256
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mutiny Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)

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