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14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the grim fat-fist crack to its end then traverse left reach to the pleasant right-trending groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Chatsworth to Bamford, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Peak District Grit Graded List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
popebenedictus 8 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with some of the above comments especially No.11 camp hex in the bottom offwidth (or no.10 placed sideways). Arm-bar and leg-jam got me off the ground and udging up to the break. S 4a seemed about right for grade. Took a nice line at the top up the left hand side of the nose (horizontal jam and reach for the lip).
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with some of the above comments especially No.11 camp hex in the bottom offwidth (or no.10 placed sideways). Arm-bar and leg-jam got me off the ground and udging up to the break. S 4a seemed about right for grade. Took a nice line at the top up the left hand side of the nose (horizontal jam and reach for the lip).
mark75 20 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a good route but why is everyone trying to overgrade it? The crack has excellent foot jams (and I'm not that good at cracks), the pro is more than adequate if you are using a modern rack and the hand holds in the break are massive (especially further left). The hardest move probably is 4a (just) but thats all there is to it. After the break it's a scramble.
βeta?
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βeta: This is a good route but why is everyone trying to overgrade it? The crack has excellent foot jams (and I'm not that good at cracks), the pro is more than adequate if you are using a modern rack and the hand holds in the break are massive (especially further left). The hardest move probably is 4a (just) but thats all there is to it. After the break it's a scramble.
Ouncepounce 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely climb, but fist jam? Try a few delicate bance moves laying away on the left. Good S4b.
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely climb, but fist jam? Try a few delicate bance moves laying away on the left. Good S4b.
victim of mathematics 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A willingness to foot jam makes the start a bit more do-able, but it is still nails for the grade. S4a, or maybe even 4b at a push. All HVDiff leaders should own a big cam. I own several!
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βeta: A willingness to foot jam makes the start a bit more do-able, but it is still nails for the grade. S4a, or maybe even 4b at a push. All HVDiff leaders should own a big cam. I own several!
Iggy_B 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not that hard.
βeta?
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βeta: Not that hard.
Dan_S 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom crack takes a camp 11 hex nicely. Difficult start, but nice climbing after the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: Bottom crack takes a camp 11 hex nicely. Difficult start, but nice climbing after the traverse.
Nutkey 1 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The crack is bigger than a no 9 rockcentric, at least at the start. I didn't have much job placing it at the top either, and didn't need to, as there was enough choice of other placements.
βeta?
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βeta: The crack is bigger than a no 9 rockcentric, at least at the start. I didn't have much job placing it at the top either, and didn't need to, as there was enough choice of other placements.
Nutkey 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fists? Managed some foot jams, and the odd knee... A good route, did it on a single rope, and all the tricky stuff is over by the time you get to the top of the crack (and place the first gear!). Size 4 cam? How many HVD leaders have one of them?
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βeta: Fists? Managed some foot jams, and the odd knee... A good route, did it on a single rope, and all the tricky stuff is over by the time you get to the top of the crack (and place the first gear!). Size 4 cam? How many HVD leaders have one of them?
Simon Caldwell 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: We found the start harder than Hollyash Crack, fewer holds and more polished. It's just narrow enough to be protected by a big friend though. S 4b or maybe HS 4b IMO.
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βeta: We found the start harder than Hollyash Crack, fewer holds and more polished. It's just narrow enough to be protected by a big friend though. S 4b or maybe HS 4b IMO.
Monk 27 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: After the first move up the crack there are huge jugs. A size 4 cam will fit nicely in the crack if you need it.
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βeta: After the first move up the crack there are huge jugs. A size 4 cam will fit nicely in the crack if you need it.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Fist width? OFFWIDTH! skidded of the polished holds and was quite glad to have been walking a size 4 friend up the crack, just brushed the ground.
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βeta: Fist width? OFFWIDTH! skidded of the polished holds and was quite glad to have been walking a size 4 friend up the crack, just brushed the ground.
Chris Fitzhugh 25 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Undergraded unless perhaps you have massive fists and wear big boots. It's fun watching first time visitors, E1 leaders, trying to warm up on this route. But it is worth a hard fight - a fine route. Chris FitzHugh
βeta?
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βeta: Undergraded unless perhaps you have massive fists and wear big boots. It's fun watching first time visitors, E1 leaders, trying to warm up on this route. But it is worth a hard fight - a fine route. Chris FitzHugh

Logged Ascents

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 254
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 221
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set