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βeta:don't care about grade really, class climbing. i think the initial transfer into the ayback positin mught intimidate some hs leaders. hard in comparison top mutiny crack but....
Show beta βeta:don't care about grade really, class climbing. i think the initial transfer into the ayback positin mught intimidate some hs leaders. hard in comparison top mutiny crack but....
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βeta:Its a lovely pure crack line. However, anyone who thinks this is VS is deluding themselves ! Its very short, totally protectable and not overly technical. Jam it if its damp.
Show beta βeta:Its a lovely pure crack line. However, anyone who thinks this is VS is deluding themselves ! Its very short, totally protectable and not overly technical. Jam it if its damp.
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βeta:Ignoring comments about grading for a minute - this route is fantastic..pop in some gear layback and mantle onto the shelf, pop in another bit of gear, jam and mantle to the top. hey presto....and only one sling required for the belay..joyous!!
2 stars for the complete experience...wait till late afternoon / early evening for best conditions
Show beta βeta:Ignoring comments about grading for a minute - this route is fantastic..pop in some gear layback and mantle onto the shelf, pop in another bit of gear, jam and mantle to the top. hey presto....and only one sling required for the belay..joyous!!
2 stars for the complete experience...wait till late afternoon / early evening for best conditions
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βeta:very simple and whole thing can be over in an instant.probably only vs cos if one piece of gear then sprint for the top could leave a fall close to the ground from the top. but still top easy for that
Show beta βeta:very simple and whole thing can be over in an instant.probably only vs cos if one piece of gear then sprint for the top could leave a fall close to the ground from the top. but still top easy for that
Short, but pumpy! Excellent gear throughout, I was just being soft so took some rests.
Very positive route for an introduction to laybacking, it's perfect the entire way up.
Short, but pumpy! Excellent gear throughout, I was just being soft so took some rests.
Very positive route for an introduction to laybacking, it's perfect the entire way up.
So I came back to not dog it, got on, placed gear and committed to the lay back - maybe it’s easier for the short? Backed off. Abi had a crack then backed off. I then lead it clean on my pre placed gear with a combo of foot jamming and laybacking.
So I came back to not dog it, got on, placed gear and committed to the lay back - maybe it’s easier for the short? Backed off. Abi had a crack then backed off. I then lead it clean on my pre placed gear with a combo of foot jamming and laybacking.
Gear was bomber but got a bit confused with jamming vs laybacking so sat on a cam. Straight forward enough, will be back at some point to get it clean.
Gear was bomber but got a bit confused with jamming vs laybacking so sat on a cam. Straight forward enough, will be back at some point to get it clean.
Approach Shoe Practice x 1 - It's a sitting start! And if you don't like Laybacks' it's a hard HS 4b. But it's really well protected, if you remember to place gear. Great fun for Mr Harper who ticked his first lead fall. Gear was excellent.
Approach Shoe Practice x 1 - It's a sitting start! And if you don't like Laybacks' it's a hard HS 4b. But it's really well protected, if you remember to place gear. Great fun for Mr Harper who ticked his first lead fall. Gear was excellent.
At the end of the day and as the sun was setting, I had one last demon to slay - I needed to avenge the route that put stitches in Jia's face a long time ago. Pretty pumpy and fun route but definitely felt hard for the grade!
with Holly
At the end of the day and as the sun was setting, I had one last demon to slay - I needed to avenge the route that put stitches in Jia's face a long time ago. Pretty pumpy and fun route but definitely felt hard for the grade!
Came back for the lead. Nowhere nearly as hard as I thought last time. Interesting to think that 13 months ago I led the severe next door as the hardest route of the day, and this time I got on an E1!
Came back for the lead. Nowhere nearly as hard as I thought last time. Interesting to think that 13 months ago I led the severe next door as the hardest route of the day, and this time I got on an E1!
Fluttery, adrenalin rush climb!
Starts fine, lots of gear and easy to place. But then you need to decide if you are jamming or laybacking. Jamming maybe easier with smaller hands, practice and confidence! If jamming you probably get to place plenty of gear. If you lay back in the 2nd half you might find yourself wishing you had placed more gear before committing to layback. I was glad it was graded accurately! I usually enjoy laybacks, but this spooked me. I seemed way above my gear an think jamming would be safer!
Fluttery, adrenalin rush climb!
Starts fine, lots of gear and easy to place. But then you need to decide if you are jamming or laybacking. Jamming maybe easier with smaller hands, practice and confidence! If jamming you probably get to place plenty of gear. If you lay back in the 2nd half you might find yourself wishing you had placed more gear before committing to layback. I was glad it was graded accurately! I usually enjoy laybacks, but this spooked me. I seemed way above my gear an think jamming would be safer!
I laybacked this on the lead when I had just started climbing and before I knew what jamming was, it scared the crap out of me. This time jammed it the whole way, much nicer.
I laybacked this on the lead when I had just started climbing and before I knew what jamming was, it scared the crap out of me. This time jammed it the whole way, much nicer.
nice sustained layback- i inched up but made it clean- left a bit of gear in and when huw went to get it he saw a girl fall flat on her back next to him. glad i didn't see it!
nice sustained layback- i inched up but made it clean- left a bit of gear in and when huw went to get it he saw a girl fall flat on her back next to him. glad i didn't see it!
Used to be VS; should have left it at that. Very pushy at HS and getting more difficult with polish. Much more moves than average for a climb of its height, and obviously sustained. Hitting the ground on rope stretch is not out of the question with a fall from the top.
with Karl Woofingdon
Used to be VS; should have left it at that. Very pushy at HS and getting more difficult with polish. Much more moves than average for a climb of its height, and obviously sustained. Hitting the ground on rope stretch is not out of the question with a fall from the top.
excellent climb, a little short like everyone says, but who cares, pro is good from ledge, and
then you just keep on goin in a layback stylie till ye top oot
with olivia & phil
excellent climb, a little short like everyone says, but who cares, pro is good from ledge, and
then you just keep on goin in a layback stylie till ye top oot
I got pumped trying to place wrong sized cam and took a short fall back to the ledge! Tried again after a rest, got the right sized cam in, and sprinted for the top. Brilliant route, can be jammed most of the way, but though the crack gets too thin at the top.
I got pumped trying to place wrong sized cam and took a short fall back to the ledge! Tried again after a rest, got the right sized cam in, and sprinted for the top. Brilliant route, can be jammed most of the way, but though the crack gets too thin at the top.
Not really that bold, you have a train stopper wire at the crux, and with a medium cam, placed from a good hold, your never more than a meter above gear.
Not really that bold, you have a train stopper wire at the crux, and with a medium cam, placed from a good hold, your never more than a meter above gear.
Much better this time! Decided to jam it after being told it was a classic jamming crack aswell as laybacking! Last time I had that thought in my mind but it seemed to thin! This time I found out it was the perfect size for my hands! Maybe I gave up looking after the initial laybacking section. Great jams all the way up although they thin a little bit when you get to the top so slightly more laybacking motion. Decided to put a Hex at the bottom which could take a sidepull and told Matt to run backwards if I fell with not much gear in. I had previously run it out when laybacking and probably would have scraped the deck with the only gear being placed from the ledge. This time because I was jamming it was easier to place some higher up, although not easy. Jammed up with feet and hands (dont normally foot jam, hurts!) to the small "jug", although my gear did get in the way I managed to get around it! Managed to sidepull/jam on this hold and get some more gear in and felt much more comfortable than the first time I did it (my first HS). For the topout I did some thin jams then a stretch for the top. Got to the top and was loving it! Best crack line I've jammed, bar possibly Avril at Stanage End.
Much better this time! Decided to jam it after being told it was a classic jamming crack aswell as laybacking! Last time I had that thought in my mind but it seemed to thin! This time I found out it was the perfect size for my hands! Maybe I gave up looking after the initial laybacking section. Great jams all the way up although they thin a little bit when you get to the top so slightly more laybacking motion. Decided to put a Hex at the bottom which could take a sidepull and told Matt to run backwards if I fell with not much gear in. I had previously run it out when laybacking and probably would have scraped the deck with the only gear being placed from the ledge. This time because I was jamming it was easier to place some higher up, although not easy. Jammed up with feet and hands (dont normally foot jam, hurts!) to the small "jug", although my gear did get in the way I managed to get around it! Managed to sidepull/jam on this hold and get some more gear in and felt much more comfortable than the first time I did it (my first HS). For the topout I did some thin jams then a stretch for the top. Got to the top and was loving it! Best crack line I've jammed, bar possibly Avril at Stanage End.
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