Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The short right-angled corner-crack starts from a ledge and many find it is just too thin for good jams. © Rockfax
FA. Rupert Brooks 1932.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Burbage Valley Circuit VD to VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jaco1878 | 7 Oct |
Show βeta
βeta: Good jamming until you get to the thin part of the crack then it forced me into a layback finish .left foot in the crack right foot out to the right on the wall transitioning into the layback | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Good jamming until you get to the thin part of the crack then it forced me into a layback finish .left foot in the crack right foot out to the right on the wall transitioning into the layback |
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| Lurkio | 21 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: My hands aren't small, yet the jams were perfect until the last bit where a layback became necessary. Lovely route! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My hands aren't small, yet the jams were perfect until the last bit where a layback became necessary. Lovely route! |
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| DannyC | 7 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: don't care about grade really, class climbing. i think the initial transfer into the ayback positin mught intimidate some hs leaders. hard in comparison top mutiny crack but.... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: don't care about grade really, class climbing. i think the initial transfer into the ayback positin mught intimidate some hs leaders. hard in comparison top mutiny crack but.... |
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| GrahamD | 25 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Its a lovely pure crack line. However, anyone who thinks this is VS is deluding themselves ! Its very short, totally protectable and not overly technical. Jam it if its damp. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Its a lovely pure crack line. However, anyone who thinks this is VS is deluding themselves ! Its very short, totally protectable and not overly technical. Jam it if its damp. |
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| rob k | 17 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: err, jam and Layback to top... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: err, jam and Layback to top... |
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| rob k | 17 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignoring comments about grading for a minute - this route is fantastic..pop in some gear layback and mantle onto the shelf, pop in another bit of gear, jam and mantle to the top. hey presto....and only one sling required for the belay..joyous!! 2 stars for the complete experience...wait till late afternoon / early evening for best conditions | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ignoring comments about grading for a minute - this route is fantastic..pop in some gear layback and mantle onto the shelf, pop in another bit of gear, jam and mantle to the top. hey presto....and only one sling required for the belay..joyous!! 2 stars for the complete experience...wait till late afternoon / early evening for best conditions |
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| The old James turnbull | 14 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: ...sorry, TOO easy for that | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: ...sorry, TOO easy for that |
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| The old James turnbull | 14 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: very simple and whole thing can be over in an instant.probably only vs cos if one piece of gear then sprint for the top could leave a fall close to the ground from the top. but still top easy for that | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: very simple and whole thing can be over in an instant.probably only vs cos if one piece of gear then sprint for the top could leave a fall close to the ground from the top. but still top easy for that |
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| LakesWinter | 22 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is definitely easier if jammed | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is definitely easier if jammed |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Tower Face
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)