UKC

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
The crack in the left-hand side of the face. Tricky to start. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Lobo Solitario - Part I , Mark's Grit Solo Circuits

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fidget 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There's a really nice direct start to this not using the boulder (no idea what grade) - start with a high layback in the crack, and get your feet beneath it on the high side wall. Work your hands up to a juggy hold, then get your right foot up onto the first ledge on the left in the crack. Then rockover and haul yourself up. If you use the boulder, you can just step straight into the crack (much easier this way). It's a nice solo to warm up!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a really nice direct start to this not using the boulder (no idea what grade) - start with a high layback in the crack, and get your feet beneath it on the high side wall. Work your hands up to a juggy hold, then get your right foot up onto the first ledge on the left in the crack. Then rockover and haul yourself up. If you use the boulder, you can just step straight into the crack (much easier this way). It's a nice solo to warm up!
andybuckley 13 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easy Diff, I reckon. If you stand on the boulder and use the foothold on the left it goes fine. Or you can just jump your right foot straight into the crack :-) From there it's more like a Mod. For entertainment try a sitting start: jamming, laybacking and heel-hooking all in one... probably 5a-ish and no-longer a Diff!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy Diff, I reckon. If you stand on the boulder and use the foothold on the left it goes fine. Or you can just jump your right foot straight into the crack :-) From there it's more like a Mod. For entertainment try a sitting start: jamming, laybacking and heel-hooking all in one... probably 5a-ish and no-longer a Diff!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Burbage North

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