Loading Notifications...
10m.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb up the blank groove. Many people's first Extreme which is odd as it isn't that easy. Passing the bulge is awkward and leads to the tenuous crux; protection is good but fiddly. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets.

Feedback

User Date Notes
moberg 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: A cloth with help dry off some of Sally's tears at the start.
 
Show beta
βeta: A cloth with help dry off some of Sally's tears at the start.
JayWhiting 15 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Off the ground the first hold on the left above head height (should you wish to use it) has a loose section.
 
Show beta
βeta: Off the ground the first hold on the left above head height (should you wish to use it) has a loose section.
Andy Waterhouse 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Will lead this next time
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Will lead this next time
Chris Craggs 13 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: For technical dummies who find the start the crux, starting slightly to the left and laybacking up into a bridged position so you can reach the pocket high on the left should make things a bit easier. Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For technical dummies who find the start the crux, starting slightly to the left and laybacking up into a bridged position so you can reach the pocket high on the left should make things a bit easier. Chris
jim jones 13 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hardest move is getting off the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hardest move is getting off the ground.
jim jones 11 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Like a previous comment hardest move for me was getting off the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Like a previous comment hardest move for me was getting off the ground.
Paul Tomo 13 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What a excellent climb for your first E1, the start was wet and very damp and that was right up to the crux, once past the bulge it was dry and the friction was good, one piece of gear mid way past the crux and straight to the top. Fantastic Climb E1 5b for sure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a excellent climb for your first E1, the start was wet and very damp and that was right up to the crux, once past the bulge it was dry and the friction was good, one piece of gear mid way past the crux and straight to the top. Fantastic Climb E1 5b for sure.
Oli 20 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't actually find it too hard, i think i may have been having a good weekend though. Gear is a bit fiddly, but the crux is well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't actually find it too hard, i think i may have been having a good weekend though. Gear is a bit fiddly, but the crux is well protected.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: found the start well tricky and no protection untill you stand on the scoop and can get your fingers in the bulge crack. commiting your fingers out of the good holds was the hardest part for me and if the small peable on the left wall goes will make this route a tad harder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: found the start well tricky and no protection untill you stand on the scoop and can get your fingers in the bulge crack. commiting your fingers out of the good holds was the hardest part for me and if the small peable on the left wall goes will make this route a tad harder
SARS 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not as easy as I thought it would be. You can hang around all day on it though. Seems like some of the climb is getting a bit polished, which is a shame. Good fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as easy as I thought it would be. You can hang around all day on it though. Seems like some of the climb is getting a bit polished, which is a shame. Good fun.
Alex1 16 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One thing to keep in mind is the fact that as well as good wire placements there are also a lot of bad ones which are quite easy to find when placing gear blind!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One thing to keep in mind is the fact that as well as good wire placements there are also a lot of bad ones which are quite easy to find when placing gear blind!
Shaw Brown 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As said before passing the bulge is straight forward, the crux comes after. There is overhead gear for this part, if you can reach standing on the good footholds, if you can't like meyou won't be able to stop to place anything once you start on the smears. However it was my first grit E1 so I was a bit wired. Even with the above said I think it is reasonably protected.
 
Show beta
βeta: As said before passing the bulge is straight forward, the crux comes after. There is overhead gear for this part, if you can reach standing on the good footholds, if you can't like meyou won't be able to stop to place anything once you start on the smears. However it was my first grit E1 so I was a bit wired. Even with the above said I think it is reasonably protected.
Duz Walker 6 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Dropped my nuts as it started to rain chest high to the bulge. Nuts caught in rope and the wind blew so commited and was disappointed, twice, by reaches to pockets. Once foot on the original palm off though its all over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dropped my nuts as it started to rain chest high to the bulge. Nuts caught in rope and the wind blew so commited and was disappointed, twice, by reaches to pockets. Once foot on the original palm off though its all over.
Jody 25 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One good wire (larger than medium) before the bulge and one just before the pocket the rest is not so great since the crack is quite shallow. I have done E1's that have better and easier protection and the crux is reachy and smeary therefore I wouldnt reccommend it as anybody's first Extreme. A pure and excellent line though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One good wire (larger than medium) before the bulge and one just before the pocket the rest is not so great since the crack is quite shallow. I have done E1's that have better and easier protection and the crux is reachy and smeary therefore I wouldnt reccommend it as anybody's first Extreme. A pure and excellent line though.
Jez 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: You can get a bomber 4 or 5 wire above the bulge - quite a reach to get it in! Good route though
 
Show beta
βeta: You can get a bomber 4 or 5 wire above the bulge - quite a reach to get it in! Good route though
Tom Gilbert 12 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent medium wires can be placed below and above the bulge before making the move over it. Several more very good wire placements above the bulge make the route safe all the way through to the top-out. Smearing on the slab allows the upper wires to be placed without haste.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent medium wires can be placed below and above the bulge before making the move over it. Several more very good wire placements above the bulge make the route safe all the way through to the top-out. Smearing on the slab allows the upper wires to be placed without haste.
MNA123 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well i'll admit it, ive lead E1 before but as i started up this i found the gear to be shit. I just couldn't bring myself to pull over the bulge, so down i came and up went the top rope. Great route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well i'll admit it, ive lead E1 before but as i started up this i found the gear to be shit. I just couldn't bring myself to pull over the bulge, so down i came and up went the top rope. Great route though.
MeMeMe 6 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think it pretty much always seeps at the bottom and only one foothold on seepage so no extra points for that I wouldn't think. I've tried it with small cams for protection (rubbish, I fell off and all but one cam came out), and nuts for protection (didn't fall off) and the nut placements are much, much better. There is a good one belay the bulge and good placements above the bulge. I screwed up nut placement higher-up (got wrong sized nut stuck enough to be hard to pull out, but not stuck enough that I'd like to fall on it) and scared myself silly on upper section. Satisfying to get up it after taking a fall on it before.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think it pretty much always seeps at the bottom and only one foothold on seepage so no extra points for that I wouldn't think. I've tried it with small cams for protection (rubbish, I fell off and all but one cam came out), and nuts for protection (didn't fall off) and the nut placements are much, much better. There is a good one belay the bulge and good placements above the bulge. I screwed up nut placement higher-up (got wrong sized nut stuck enough to be hard to pull out, but not stuck enough that I'd like to fall on it) and scared myself silly on upper section. Satisfying to get up it after taking a fall on it before.
jgoodwin2020 22 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: great route. i found it very pumpy though and very hard to get gear in the crack just above and below the crux. i ended up with 2 small cams in the crack where it enters the upper wall then a very very crap cam in the pocket further up for confidence (which later fell out). overall, a great route and not as well protected as i thought if you havent got that much stamina to hang around and get some small cams in!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route. i found it very pumpy though and very hard to get gear in the crack just above and below the crux. i ended up with 2 small cams in the crack where it enters the upper wall then a very very crap cam in the pocket further up for confidence (which later fell out). overall, a great route and not as well protected as i thought if you havent got that much stamina to hang around and get some small cams in!
LankyPaddy 2 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Crux for me is getting off the ground, after that a highstep+palm off see's to the bulge, and some more delicate moves with smeers for the top crack, gear is good through out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux for me is getting off the ground, after that a highstep+palm off see's to the bulge, and some more delicate moves with smeers for the top crack, gear is good through out
Cottie 30 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route but add another crux by heading across to the left arete after the bulge. Route is then given E1 5c and is called Rockers. Keeps the fun lasting a bit longer
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route but add another crux by heading across to the left arete after the bulge. Route is then given E1 5c and is called Rockers. Keeps the fun lasting a bit longer
Monk 9 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think the crux is the bulge although it stays interesting until you have the pocket. The slab on the bulge looks very steep when you are trying to get a foothold on it! An absolutely fantastic climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the crux is the bulge although it stays interesting until you have the pocket. The slab on the bulge looks very steep when you are trying to get a foothold on it! An absolutely fantastic climb!
Robo 6 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: My first Extreme, and I loved it. I also felt the crux was above the bulge on the smears, although getting off the ground is not trivial!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first Extreme, and I loved it. I also felt the crux was above the bulge on the smears, although getting off the ground is not trivial!

Logged Ascents

1988 users have logged this
268 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 312
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 300
Votes cast 292
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Embankment 4

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)