UKC

Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
The scary front face of the square buttress, trending right - neat. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Banton 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bizarrely great route. All easy 5a/5b moves, but it feels really bold as soon as you leave the ground! Definitely better than Small Arctic Mammal. Good slab climbing technique needed, and no real strenuous bits, but given Sundowner at Frogatt is E2 5a, this might just sneak into the E2 catagory, even without the real death-fall height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bizarrely great route. All easy 5a/5b moves, but it feels really bold as soon as you leave the ground! Definitely better than Small Arctic Mammal. Good slab climbing technique needed, and no real strenuous bits, but given Sundowner at Frogatt is E2 5a, this might just sneak into the E2 catagory, even without the real death-fall height.

Logged Ascents

259 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Bouldered
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Embankment 3

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)

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