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10m.

Rockfax Description
The narrow projecting buttress has a couple of steep and powerful moves just below the top. © Rockfax

FA. Dennis Carr 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Memorable Climbs, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, SUMC's Steep Testpieces, Peak District Grit Graded List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good mid-grade E2 5b with plenty of good cams in the horizontal breaks - ignore the vertical crackline until you're above it, as fiddling with nuts will just knacker you for the rest of the route! Slotting in a piece at the top from the jug/ledge abvoe it, however, is easy. I also felt it natural to finish on the right arete...
 
Show beta
βeta: Good mid-grade E2 5b with plenty of good cams in the horizontal breaks - ignore the vertical crackline until you're above it, as fiddling with nuts will just knacker you for the rest of the route! Slotting in a piece at the top from the jug/ledge abvoe it, however, is easy. I also felt it natural to finish on the right arete...
Fiend 31 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is fantastic. Both the adjectival and technical crux is fiddling around in that bloody awful mid-height crack.
βeta?
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βeta: The climbing is fantastic. Both the adjectival and technical crux is fiddling around in that bloody awful mid-height crack.
Monk 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's not that hard to follow this route! Not many options. Just go straight up the front. There is a good cam available in a break higher up but it is strenuous to place (i used it though as I was scared stupid!)
βeta?
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βeta: It's not that hard to follow this route! Not many options. Just go straight up the front. There is a good cam available in a break higher up but it is strenuous to place (i used it though as I was scared stupid!)
jamiemoss 12 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure exactly where this route goes - does it follow the underside of overhang throughout? I ended up rocking round onto the right hand face and climbing this with my left hand on the arete for the last couple of moves (following obvious, heavily chalked holds). It wasn't easy - 5b with no gear after the crack. Did I go wrong? Was still fantastic quality though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure exactly where this route goes - does it follow the underside of overhang throughout? I ended up rocking round onto the right hand face and climbing this with my left hand on the arete for the last couple of moves (following obvious, heavily chalked holds). It wasn't easy - 5b with no gear after the crack. Did I go wrong? Was still fantastic quality though.
mark s 4 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: standard 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: standard 5b
Monk 31 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is lower than I thought and I ended up reversing it twice before committing to the top moves. The crack isn't as easy to get good gear in as it looks and the top break is quite dirty. My first E2 so can't really comment on the grade but really good climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux is lower than I thought and I ended up reversing it twice before committing to the top moves. The crack isn't as easy to get good gear in as it looks and the top break is quite dirty. My first E2 so can't really comment on the grade but really good climbing.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 124
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Zeus

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)