UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack is approached up a straightforward clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave then good jamming leads to an awkward exit. © Rockfax

FA. Rupert Brooks 1934.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Burbage South Edge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

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User Date Notes
Jon-Paul Buck 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Dead bird in first cave section after inital corner crack. Didn't have any bags or anything to remove it. Hasn't been dead for more than a week but the smell is already extremely off-putting.
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βeta: Dead bird in first cave section after inital corner crack. Didn't have any bags or anything to remove it. Hasn't been dead for more than a week but the smell is already extremely off-putting.
Joe.Oetting 22 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very hollow sounding flake just before climbing into the first cave.
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βeta: Very hollow sounding flake just before climbing into the first cave.
Rgledable 14 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pair of doves in the crack, not nesting but not happy either.
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βeta: Pair of doves in the crack, not nesting but not happy either.
PaulJepson 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There's a pigeon nest full of babies in the first cave. They're generally not too fussed so would just avoid going in too far (or don't climb it and leave them be)
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βeta: There's a pigeon nest full of babies in the first cave. They're generally not too fussed so would just avoid going in too far (or don't climb it and leave them be)
jimbonfire 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A bird with young chics in the cave.
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βeta: A bird with young chics in the cave.
soph 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Young bird halfway up route so I’d avoid at the moment. Diverted onto bynes the traversed back left to rejoin above.
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βeta: Young bird halfway up route so I’d avoid at the moment. Diverted onto bynes the traversed back left to rejoin above.
cheque 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Collared dove nesting in the back of the first “cave” 23/06/21. Best to avoid til their kids have fledged.
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βeta: Collared dove nesting in the back of the first “cave” 23/06/21. Best to avoid til their kids have fledged.
jim jones 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda.
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βeta: Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda.
Nick Smith - Climbers 23 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoy the pleasant climbing up the initial corner and the final jamming crack, because the middle section is hideous! Hard work with nothing much for the feet...
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βeta: Enjoy the pleasant climbing up the initial corner and the final jamming crack, because the middle section is hideous! Hard work with nothing much for the feet...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Burbage South Edge

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plexity

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)

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