UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
An unrelenting struggle up the wide crack. At least it is protectable nowadays by the biggest cams. The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that is rather avoiding the issue. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1958.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Wide Cracks, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Thrutch and Clutch, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Top 50 Peak Cracks, James' Winter Grit ticklist, UK road to wide crack mastery, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Crackageddon, Proper Cracks UK, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, UK Crack Hitlist, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs, Big trad grit list, Must do, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2

Feedback

User Date Notes
dannyboy83 25 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A real battle if you stay in the crack
Show beta
βeta: A real battle if you stay in the crack
Iggy_B 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is just desperate. E4 6a maybe?
Show beta
βeta: This is just desperate. E4 6a maybe?
UKB Shark 19 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed.
Show beta
βeta: The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed.
UKB Shark 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=241 and general off width tips on http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html
Show beta
βeta: Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=241 and general off width tips on http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html
Garan 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 37
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Ground Up
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Flute of Hope

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Higgar Tor)
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