Rockfax Description
An unrelenting struggle up the wide crack. At least it is protectable with the biggest cams. The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that is rather avoiding the issue. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1958.
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Wide Cracks , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Thrutch and Clutch , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Top 50 Peak Cracks , James' Winter Grit ticklist , UK road to wide crack mastery , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Crackageddon , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , UK Crack Hitlist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Big trad grit list , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , Crack Fueled Rampage , Winter 23/24
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| samt | 6 Sep |
Show βeta
βeta: Wear good fitting long sleeves!!! (unless you lay back it, more elegant, but definitely misses the point). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wear good fitting long sleeves!!! (unless you lay back it, more elegant, but definitely misses the point). |
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| Carlos Montero | 4 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Not quite sure you can take the full tick if you layback this… | ||
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βeta: Not quite sure you can take the full tick if you layback this… |
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| dannyboy83 | 25 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A real battle if you stay in the crack | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A real battle if you stay in the crack |
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| UKB Shark | 19 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed. |
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| UKB Shark | 18 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=241 and general off width tips on http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=241 and general off width tips on http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html |
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| Garan | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage South Edge
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The Brush Off
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Rivelin Edge)