UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
Absorbing balancy climbing up the left arete of the buttress with a poor landing leads to a good horizontal break and runners. An immense reach is all that remains, or if over-reached, head left. © Rockfax

FA. Dennis Carr 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
steveb2006 10 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The very good low micro-cam (dragonfly 3 or camalot 00) in the first slot, may only just protect a fall from the crux moves just before the break. The larger higher slot is pretty rubbish for gear.
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βeta: The very good low micro-cam (dragonfly 3 or camalot 00) in the first slot, may only just protect a fall from the crux moves just before the break. The larger higher slot is pretty rubbish for gear.
Fiend 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A very worthwhile route - when done direct up the obvious line of the arete. Why a route would be described with an off-line eliminate finish is beyond me. The lower section, just safe above the perfect small cams, has a very fine sequence.
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βeta: A very worthwhile route - when done direct up the obvious line of the arete. Why a route would be described with an off-line eliminate finish is beyond me. The lower section, just safe above the perfect small cams, has a very fine sequence.
Iggy_B 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worth 2 stars at least! The lowish pocket takes 2 dodgy 0 cams and apparently a bomber 00 which I didn't have. Reachy move to reach the jugs, may be E3 6a for the short. Have done both finishes and for anyone under 6'5 go left as the straight up was at the very limit of my reach.
βeta?
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βeta: Worth 2 stars at least! The lowish pocket takes 2 dodgy 0 cams and apparently a bomber 00 which I didn't have. Reachy move to reach the jugs, may be E3 6a for the short. Have done both finishes and for anyone under 6'5 go left as the straight up was at the very limit of my reach.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Zeus

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)
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