UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
Start below the crack and climb easily up to a small ledge. Above is a sustained section of laybacking to reach a good hold. From here, follow the flake-line rightwards more easily to a junction with Equinox. It is best finished up the crack leading up and left, which was the original finish to Equinox. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Plenty of rather big and also rather hollow flakes. Dont bother to test them, you'll just get scared. Follow the obvious diagonal line to the left of Equinox. At the point where they meet either take the left hand branch or the righthand branch, easier.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , AMC Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slate Pyramid , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
_Adam_Howard_ 13 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Just above the crux, the block that you reach for has become loose. Don't pull too hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just above the crux, the block that you reach for has become loose. Don't pull too hard.
Brendan Rose 15 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: E3? This is a safe and unsustained romp at HVS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E3? This is a safe and unsustained romp at HVS
Daimon - Rockfax 23 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It appears some holds have come away making this climb much harder. More E1 5c for the short with French 6b+ climbing. But some would say Easy E3 to be honest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It appears some holds have come away making this climb much harder. More E1 5c for the short with French 6b+ climbing. But some would say Easy E3 to be honest.
dobby 200 7 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The missing block has probably doubled the length of the crux, so it is pretty pumpy if your fingers don\'t fit. Definitely at least hard HVS now
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The missing block has probably doubled the length of the crux, so it is pretty pumpy if your fingers don't fit. Definitely at least hard HVS now
S Strydom 23 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice climb for my first slate experience. Scary run out crux in the middle with sketch to almost no feet with narrow crack layback. Really enjoyed!!
Show beta
βeta: Really nice climb for my first slate experience. Scary run out crux in the middle with sketch to almost no feet with narrow crack layback. Really enjoyed!!
BushwackerBritz 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure which holds are now missing as per other comments. I am short and this felt harder than e2's (German school girl, Last tango in Peris) that I did on the same trip. Just one cruxy long reach with slick feet when at the flake in the middle of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure which holds are now missing as per other comments. I am short and this felt harder than e2's (German school girl, Last tango in Peris) that I did on the same trip. Just one cruxy long reach with slick feet when at the flake in the middle of the climb.
joem 12 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Seems to be quite hard now a second flake has gone, think there's a few 5b moves now. loads of gear but please avoid placing cams unless you want the existing flakes to go the same way as the last ones.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems to be quite hard now a second flake has gone, think there's a few 5b moves now. loads of gear but please avoid placing cams unless you want the existing flakes to go the same way as the last ones.

Logged Ascents

2542 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 260
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 247
Votes cast 207
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gyllion

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Simdde Ddu)

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