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26m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Solstice to where it moves right after its crux and make a tough pull to gain a hanging groove. Follow this to the top via some good moves and small gear. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Solstice and just after halfway from the curved flake line a thin groove leads directly to the top.

A George, T Taylor 23/Jun/1985.

Ticklists

AMC Uni Ticklist, 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday

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User Date Notes
BoldyMcBoldface 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose flakes, some at the junction with original route and some at the top of the direct
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose flakes, some at the junction with original route and some at the top of the direct
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lewis Perrin Williams 26 Jun Lead O/S Good, could be a harder crux for short but still ok if you're flexible.
with Lucy Tatam
Good, could be a harder crux for short but still ok if you're flexible.
with Lucy Tatam
Hidden 9 Jun -
Arlo rogers 19 Jan Lead O/S
OlGRE 3 Nov, 2019 Lead β
96bella 4 Oct, 2019 2nd
JagoNeath 4 Oct, 2019 Lead
with 96bella
with 96bella
cavemancolumbus 14 Sep, 2019 2nd
with Chris
with Chris
96bella 14 Sep, 2019 2nd
Wallman 29 Aug, 2019 2nd β Head torches in the dark
Head torches in the dark
jobangles 28 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Wallman
with Wallman
Hidden 28 Aug, 2019 2nd O/S
JoshRawson 28 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S After waiting an age for a group of top ropers to give up sliding off the flake, I tied in and set off. Great gear in the start, solid nuts, glad I had my offsets and also my offset peanuts proved very useful! Bottom was harder than the direct finish in my opinion just a big potential fall, managed to get a 0.5 friend in but didnt seem great before the direct crux (it wasnt behind a thin flake). Awesome moves though and takes a bit of commitment setting off from the ledges Louise seconded well! No issues
After waiting an age for a group of top ropers to give up sliding off the flake, I tied in and set off. Great gear in the start, solid nuts, glad I had my offsets and also my offset peanuts proved very useful! Bottom was harder than the direct finish in my opinion just a big potential fall, managed to get a 0.5 friend in but didnt seem great before the direct crux (it wasnt behind a thin flake). Awesome moves though and takes a bit of commitment setting off from the ledges Louise seconded well! No issues
LucaC 24 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Dan
with Dan
climb62 17 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Steve
with Steve
ConorWalter 15 Aug, 2019 Lead
Culann 15 Aug, 2019 -
with Mitty
with Mitty
Luke90 5 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
with Jodie
with Jodie
JohnHartley 25 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
with stephen hartley
with stephen hartley
kira5753 15 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
Jeremy Rodgers 12 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Lucian P
with Lucian P
Rocky1339 23 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S Brilliant route! Really enjoyed the top part interesting moves.
with Amy
Brilliant route! Really enjoyed the top part interesting moves.
with Amy
mattyr 17 Jun, 2019 TR
Jamesd9090 17 Jun, 2019 TR O/S
Phantom1107 17 Jun, 2019 TR β
graham21 24 May, 2019 Lead O/S
williemiller 24 May, 2019 2nd
with graham
with graham
BoldyMcBoldface 6 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2019 2nd O/S
friendzone1234 ? May, 2019 -
Jim blackford 15 Apr, 2019 2nd O/S
danieljames123 15 Apr, 2019 Lead Good fun, no gear on the e2 part really
Good fun, no gear on the e2 part really
Hidden 6 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2019 2nd
BC 6 Apr, 2019 2nd rpt
OWEN21james 31 Mar, 2019 Lead
Climbster 26 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 26 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S Didn't find any gear worth having after leaving Solstice and I'd only put a sling on the thin flake before moving up into the direct thinking I would find more pro,so would recommend lacing the crack on the original before moving up,spicy!
Didn't find any gear worth having after leaving Solstice and I'd only put a sling on the thin flake before moving up into the direct thinking I would find more pro,so would recommend lacing the crack on the original before moving up,spicy!
alexkitts 15 Feb, 2019 -
Matthew Davies 10 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S great alternative finish to the route, bold final sequence. worth doing.
with Andrew Cardy
great alternative finish to the route, bold final sequence. worth doing.
with Andrew Cardy
roym 27 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Tom Fullen 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Went for the HVS but this looked doable. Moves aren’t too difficult but the gear is a way down
with roym
Went for the HVS but this looked doable. Moves aren’t too difficult but the gear is a way down
with roym
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 Lead
petegruf 7 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
NinaR 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
josefft 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
myrddinmuse 14 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Felt like jumping on the lead a few days after seconding eve up this. Couldn't cram two micros in like she had, nor could I fit two cams in the little slot (or even one decent one..!) but it flowed quite well after coming into the shade.
Felt like jumping on the lead a few days after seconding eve up this. Couldn't cram two micros in like she had, nor could I fit two cams in the little slot (or even one decent one..!) but it flowed quite well after coming into the shade.
OliverR17 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
eel 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 10 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Nice lead by Eve! As seems to be her habit, she took the hard option for the finish!
Nice lead by Eve! As seems to be her habit, she took the hard option for the finish!
Hexman 21 Apr, 2018 TR O/S Nice moves but a bit bold for me to lead
Nice moves but a bit bold for me to lead
tprebs 19 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Peter Danson
with Peter Danson
Hidden 19 Apr, 2018 2nd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Mike505 15 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Poor gear on the crux made me regret the optional run-out on the lower route, two poor micro wires (rp1&2), a shallow yellow alien and an offset nut that probably wouldn't have held protected the move. After that it eased up but wasn't over and a flake I trusted higher up won't be there forever.
with eb202
Poor gear on the crux made me regret the optional run-out on the lower route, two poor micro wires (rp1&2), a shallow yellow alien and an offset nut that probably wouldn't have held protected the move. After that it eased up but wasn't over and a flake I trusted higher up won't be there forever.
with eb202
RM199 5 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Derek Ryden 15 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 15 Jul, 2017 Lead A nice line with some good climbing. Thought the HVS part was tricky for HVS & the top wasn't exactly well protected: a couple of micros & a small cam before you launch up the last section.
A nice line with some good climbing. Thought the HVS part was tricky for HVS & the top wasn't exactly well protected: a couple of micros & a small cam before you launch up the last section.
Hidden 9 Jun, 2017 -
MarkNicholasConnor u 1 May, 2017 Lead O/S not the most confidence inspiring gear below the crux, but moves not to hard once you've got you feet sorted
not the most confidence inspiring gear below the crux, but moves not to hard once you've got you feet sorted
mountainremedy 1 May, 2017 2nd
with williap
with williap
SarahConnor 1 May, 2017 2nd
williap 1 May, 2017 Lead O/S
BC 21 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
DeaNomNom 21 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S No guidebook, felt like E1
No guidebook, felt like E1
Hidden 5 Apr, 2017 TR O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2017 TR O/S
Phil_Brock 14 Oct, 2016 TR β On Plas Y Brenin "Rock Improver" course. Crux move on direct finish difficult & strenuous, imagine it would be horrendous on lead as it's way above the nearest pro!
On Plas Y Brenin "Rock Improver" course. Crux move on direct finish difficult & strenuous, imagine it would be horrendous on lead as it's way above the nearest pro!
Hidden 8 Oct, 2016 TR O/S
Jacob Goodenough 24 Sep, 2016 TR O/S
with Ryan lock
with Ryan lock
suds_01 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
dobby 200 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with suds_01
with suds_01
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Whitmoreaa 13 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
helnewilliamson 13 Jul, 2016 TR
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
JonesE 18 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
jacob shieldhouse hadley 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S E2 5a..
with justin
E2 5a..
with justin
kez1 23 May, 2016 2nd rpt
JonesE 22 May, 2016 Lead rpt Lovely climb that had to be lead having done it on top-rope previously.
Lovely climb that had to be lead having done it on top-rope previously.
Hidden 22 May, 2016 2nd rpt
Whitmoreaa 13 May, 2016 TR O/S
useful 9 May, 2016 2nd Actually found the lower HVS finger crack harder than the direct finish - but then, I was on top-rope!
with Rob G MLT
Actually found the lower HVS finger crack harder than the direct finish - but then, I was on top-rope!
with Rob G MLT
Hidden 30 Mar, 2016 TR O/S
JonesE 28 Mar, 2016 TR O/S Seconded partner up Solstice, down climbed to the direct finish after taking out last piece of gear and finished up the direct. One committing rock over move and then an easy finish on big holds. Will lead this next time.
Seconded partner up Solstice, down climbed to the direct finish after taking out last piece of gear and finished up the direct. One committing rock over move and then an easy finish on big holds. Will lead this next time.
Alison Cairns 3 Mar, 2016 2nd β Sandbagged Paul on this as sent him up it thinking it was the HVS version - quite thin and not the best gear!
with Paul Scott
Sandbagged Paul on this as sent him up it thinking it was the HVS version - quite thin and not the best gear!
with Paul Scott
Laura Pruul 30 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
with Holly Addis
with Holly Addis
BenRyle 6 Jan, 2016 TR rpt
Whitey9 14 Oct, 2015 -
DavidR 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Dale ? Jul, 2015 Lead O/S If solstice original gets two stars this should get two stars. The direct makes the route better and straightens out the line. Feels scary on the lead it is hard to commit to the crux which is a slippery smear and is 5c. The gear at the crux is a joke its just there to slow you down the only good gear is on solstice original. It would be a nasty fall if you blow the crux bouncing off the ledge.
with john
If solstice original gets two stars this should get two stars. The direct makes the route better and straightens out the line. Feels scary on the lead it is hard to commit to the crux which is a slippery smear and is 5c. The gear at the crux is a joke its just there to slow you down the only good gear is on solstice original. It would be a nasty fall if you blow the crux bouncing off the ledge.
with john
brader-brader 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 14 May, 2015 2nd rpt
admackie 14 May, 2015 Lead O/S polish stops as soon as you step off the hvs
polish stops as soon as you step off the hvs
damob123 18 Mar, 2015 TR O/S
kez1 ??, 2015 TR
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd O/S
joedean ??, 2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??, 2015 -
Jamie E 30 Dec, 2014 2nd O/S Thought I was climbing a HVS until just before the crux Doug tells us it's actually the E2 variation. Still, great climb!
with Flavio
Thought I was climbing a HVS until just before the crux Doug tells us it's actually the E2 variation. Still, great climb!
with Flavio
Flavio 30 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S First E2 as a surprise warmup
with Jamie E
First E2 as a surprise warmup
with Jamie E
Hidden 23 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
tomwright1509 23 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S Terrifying and character building! Very worth while to get back on top with head game!
Terrifying and character building! Very worth while to get back on top with head game!
morganator u 28 Sep, 2014 2nd
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
andy75 26 Aug, 2014 TR O/S
with bethan
with bethan
kyaizawa 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
SarahA 24 Aug, 2014 2nd
lcullum7 24 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
adamre12 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Run out at the top
Run out at the top
Matadoors 6 Jul, 2014 2nd
Shane Willis 1 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 28 May, 2014 Lead
richy85 28 May, 2014 Lead O/S Hardest Trad Lead to date. Better than Solstice. Bomber gear untill the run out top bit. Ran out the Direct finish. excellent route
with Paul
Hardest Trad Lead to date. Better than Solstice. Bomber gear untill the run out top bit. Ran out the Direct finish. excellent route
with Paul
the power 28 May, 2014 2nd O/S
darcan 25 May, 2014 TR O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2014 Lead rpt
ad111 9 Mar, 2014 2nd
ianstevens 9 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Lovely climbing, nice and harrowing (character building) in the upper section with some delightful 'slow me down' gear. Probably hard 5b/soft 5c, and far more fun than Solstice.
with ad111
Lovely climbing, nice and harrowing (character building) in the upper section with some delightful 'slow me down' gear. Probably hard 5b/soft 5c, and far more fun than Solstice.
with ad111
JamesLloyd 3 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
waynekinrade ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Barrez 8 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rob2904
with Rob2904
Mario Grabinski 26 Aug, 2013 TR
with Tom Williams
with Tom Williams
a_m154 28 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
with Noah Granger , James Ormrod
with Noah Granger , James Ormrod
Dan Hale 1 Jul, 2013 Lead RP Seconded Ben on this a while ago. Decided to lead it today, great finishing moves but not hard-a few snappy/ hollow gear placements which you wouldn't want to test perhaps justify the E2 grade.
Seconded Ben on this a while ago. Decided to lead it today, great finishing moves but not hard-a few snappy/ hollow gear placements which you wouldn't want to test perhaps justify the E2 grade.
ItsHuwHaribo ? Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
air 7 Jun, 2013 2nd
Lloyders 7 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Nice finish
with air
Nice finish
with air
Andy Peak 1 10 Apr, 2013 Lead In no way is this 5c not even hard 5b!
with Will
In no way is this 5c not even hard 5b!
with Will
Zoomer 12 Feb, 2013 TR dog Freezing cold, literatly. Hot aches in toes and hands. Slipped at the bottom before the 5c bit.
with A Student
Freezing cold, literatly. Hot aches in toes and hands. Slipped at the bottom before the 5c bit.
with A Student
BenRyle 27 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
Samuel Wainwright 27 Jan, 2013 2nd O/S
ad111 27 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 16 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
shed_hed 16 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
richiebongo 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Worrying gear
with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
Worrying gear
with Gwen Thomson, Jon Didymus
Marti999 u 9 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
SamuelHarris 7 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 7 Jul, 2012 2nd β
with Sam Harris
with Sam Harris
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
HodgePL ??, 2012 TR
with Dan Mcgonigle
with Dan Mcgonigle
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
SimonMarcYoung 25 Nov, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Oct, 2011 2nd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 -
dan ely 18 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Keendan 22 Apr, 2011 TR O/S Toproped on a rock leader training course
Toproped on a rock leader training course
Yong_Welsh 6 Apr, 2011 Lead RP Good... only 3 moves
Good... only 3 moves
Hidden 4 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Mar, 2011 TR
Ally Smith 30 Sep, 2010 2nd
with Californian James
with Californian James
Hidden 14 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 24 May, 2009 TR O/S
with erica
with erica
AndyGodber75 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Iwan
with Iwan
Hidden 4 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
ritchierich 4 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S Gear poor on top section of this from good ledge.
Gear poor on top section of this from good ledge.
roo22 ??, 2009 -
tumbling wizard ? Jun, 2008 -
wbo 11 Jun, 1992 Lead
PaulHermes ??, 1991 -
Hidden ??, 1990 -
9 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

S S Special

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)