Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.




Rockfax Description
An eliminate up the wall between Meltdown and Gnat Attack. Climb up and clip the first bolt on Gnat Attack, then traverse left to below a blank wall. Climb up between the two routes to reach 'thank god' holds on the foot-traverse of Gnat Attack, which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
this takes the line between gnat attack and meltdown it is very insecure and commiting, it has one peice of protection and the longest run-out on this slab. climb to the first bolt on gnat attack traverse out left until a series of cleaned crimps and smears are just above you climb these that lead to some very insecure moves level with the second bolt on gnat attack but about 3 or 4 m left then reach thank god jugs and run it out to the top of gnat attack.

J Shieldhouse-Hadley 23/Apr/2015.


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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 2
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Rail to Oblivion

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Craig Bodlyn)

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