Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
A great introduction to the type of climbing you find on the run-out slabs in the quarries. Solo up to the first bolt (at 12m!), and make a desperate move to reach the second bolt. Above this, a small terrace leads up and left like a stairway to the stars. Enjoy the easy and run-out climbing above until you have a nervous moment moving back right to reach the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A delicate line up the right hand edge of the slab. Climb carefully to a break then traverse rightwards to the first bolt. Thin moves (harder for the short) lead up to the second bolt, followed by an easier run-out to the top. Bolted lower off. Direct start done 04/04/86.
A D Newton, R A Newton 31/Jul/1985.
Ticklists
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Thank god I don't have to do that again , Slate Mastery , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Covid19 Summer Slate Targets , Slate Goals , North Wales To Do List , Recommended Slate
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Willkilbey | 14 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Horizontal #9 nut half way to the first bolt will make you feel a bit better about life... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Horizontal #9 nut half way to the first bolt will make you feel a bit better about life... |
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| George Muston | 5 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bomber sidewards side 7 nut in the break before the bolt. Makes the starting solo feel a lot less intimidating. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Bomber sidewards side 7 nut in the break before the bolt. Makes the starting solo feel a lot less intimidating. |
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| lithos | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: large nut (8/9) at ledge below the first bolt, a smaller nut (3/4/5 ish) possible at top before final moves | ||
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Show beta
βeta: large nut (8/9) at ledge below the first bolt, a smaller nut (3/4/5 ish) possible at top before final moves |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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Plexus
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)