Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove. Often described as one pitch for the hero and another for the married man.1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack; follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up the recess on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it in an amazing position, past very small cams, until a difficult move gains a larger crack that leads up and right to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)
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