UKC

Rockfax Description
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove. Often described as one pitch for the hero and another for the married man.
1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack; follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up the recess on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.
2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it in an amazing position, past very small cams, until a difficult move gains a larger crack that leads up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , slate E5's , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 17 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: DMM peanuts useful
Show beta
βeta: DMM peanuts useful
Misha 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are two belay bolts, hard to spot - one just above the roof of the slate hut and ones just below!
βeta?
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βeta: There are two belay bolts, hard to spot - one just above the roof of the slate hut and ones just below!
Dan Hale 17 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underpower

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Moelfre)

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