The first section tackles the enticing hole mid-way up the magnificent blank slab in California. It involves some tricky climbing, but can be done in reverse if the weather is poor or the climbing team are not up to it.
1) Follow the normal approach to California to the base of the left-hand side of the main California Wall.
2) Make a short hard move to the chain and hand-over-hand up this until you get your feet onto good holds where you can rest. Carry on up to a bolt belay in the tunnel mouth.
3) Walk through the tunnel and abseil from the chain on the tree.
In Reverse - You can scramble up to the tree in the California exit tunnel and go through this to pop out halfway up the California Wall. Abseil down past the chain and then go back out through the California approach tunnel. This makes the whole Snakes and Ladders trip technically much easier since you miss the hard pull to the chain.
4) Walk back along the approach to the Tunnel of Love, on the right of Dali's Wall. © Rockfax
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