UKC

Good mix of jamming and horizontal breaks. Not high in the grade.
This good route follows the wider crack to the right of Easy Contract, to a small ledge at the base of a short shallow groove. Climb this and the vertical crack above and finish direct.

Ticklists

Central Belt Extremes , Central Belt - Local Classics , Glasgow Climbers Whistlestop , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Stirling's finest , The Cracks of Scotland

Feedback

User Date Notes
jimjams 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The block above and right of the the first ledge definitely moves a bit more than last time I climbed this. I guess the torso sized block referred to by the earlier beta... Think more than a torso sized block will come out when that goes. It forms the right hand flake of the middle section of the route. Not quite ready to go yet but it might not be long... Make sure you put gear on the left and treat it gently!
Show beta
βeta: The block above and right of the the first ledge definitely moves a bit more than last time I climbed this. I guess the torso sized block referred to by the earlier beta... Think more than a torso sized block will come out when that goes. It forms the right hand flake of the middle section of the route. Not quite ready to go yet but it might not be long... Make sure you put gear on the left and treat it gently!
Liam Ingram 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Torso sized block (just above and right of the middle groove) shifted when I tugged on a cam.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Torso sized block (just above and right of the middle groove) shifted when I tugged on a cam.
Devonr28 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting a few metres up in the crack. Didn't bother climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting a few metres up in the crack. Didn't bother climbing
morvich 25 Apr Show βeta
βeta: With Calum
βeta?
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βeta: With Calum
jonny taylor 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The block at the top of the first crack has always been loose, but it has definitely moved out and is more mobile. Still pulled [up, not out] on it. No sign of a nest (fledged?)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block at the top of the first crack has always been loose, but it has definitely moved out and is more mobile. Still pulled [up, not out] on it. No sign of a nest (fledged?)
ewancampbell17 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in crack near start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting in crack near start
gman2012 27 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Blue tits nesting in the crack near the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Blue tits nesting in the crack near the start
Alasdair Lowe 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block in the crack at around 2/3 height. Currently safe enough to pull on but gear could fall out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block in the crack at around 2/3 height. Currently safe enough to pull on but gear could fall out.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 113
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Midas Touch

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Auchinstarry Quarry)

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