A good but bold route up the blank-looking wall above Lion.1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.2) 5b, 40m. Move right onto the black slab, climb diagonally up and right towards a break and traverse right to where the break is widest (large cams) with a steep groove above. Teeter up the groove, going slightly left at its top. A balancy rising traverse leads rightwards to a rib. Climb the rib to the terrace above. © Rockfax
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Grade: E1 5b ***
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