UKC

90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.
2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap/break. Keep going up and right to a large fissure and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance.
3) 4a, 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, and continue on to Crackstone Rib.
4) 4a, 18m. Step right and climb up to a tree and junction with Ribstone Crack. Follow a large flake as for Ribstone Crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Summer 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rafal Malczyk 9 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Quite hard chimney on the 2nd pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite hard chimney on the 2nd pitch.
Pixie-Andy 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch.
moberg 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book.
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 75
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct Route

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)

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