Rockfax Description
A tricky crux pitch on which good technique and a bit of arm power are needed.
1) 15m. Scramble up past a holly tree, then continue up the wall on the left to reach a stance on a large flake.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the corner via some tricky moves and follow it, passing right of an overlap at 15m, to a good stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Gaining the groove is problematical and usually involves one's backside being wedged, but a wide crack above relents slightly and hopefully leads to the top. It is possible to scramble easily rightwards and down (very exposed) to the tree belay on Shadow Wall and abseil off. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , RCIAIS CCH100 , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ewanclimb227 | 4 Jul |
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βeta: rockfax app topo incorrect, indicates the e2 traverses right and the e3 goes direct, this is swapped over, description correct | βeta? | |
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βeta: rockfax app topo incorrect, indicates the e2 traverses right and the e3 goes direct, this is swapped over, description correct |
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| MikePycroft | 13 Jun |
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βeta: Ribstone crack makes a good first pitch before the meat of the route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ribstone crack makes a good first pitch before the meat of the route |
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| IainAM | 15 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: 1st pitch full of holly, went round it on left. 2nd pitch dirty and grassy. 3rd pitch clean and worthwhile. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 1st pitch full of holly, went round it on left. 2nd pitch dirty and grassy. 3rd pitch clean and worthwhile. |
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| Luke90 | 14 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Currently a helpful stuck nut that you can just about reach from below the crux. First scrambly pitch has been overtaken by the tree. I curved left towards Crackstone Rib and then back right into the groove, which works well enough. Second pitch (first proper) does have some small chunks of loose rock but it's not the horror show suggested by some comments here. Just needs a thoughtful approach. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Currently a helpful stuck nut that you can just about reach from below the crux. First scrambly pitch has been overtaken by the tree. I curved left towards Crackstone Rib and then back right into the groove, which works well enough. Second pitch (first proper) does have some small chunks of loose rock but it's not the horror show suggested by some comments here. Just needs a thoughtful approach. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carreg Wastad
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Left Wall
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)