UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
A pushy little route up the steep rib and bulge right of The Chimney. Start at the base of the rib right of The Chimney. Climb the rib (bold) to a bulge. Make a difficult move over the bulge and continue to a ledge and junction with The Chimney. Finish up right as for The Chimney. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Suncream 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I found the gear to be fine. Finished as for the VD to the left, not sure if there was a 5a move if I'd finished further right but certainly not how I did it.
βeta?
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βeta: I found the gear to be fine. Finished as for the VD to the left, not sure if there was a 5a move if I'd finished further right but certainly not how I did it.
Albie 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Less gear on this route than would be expected. I protected the hard start by placin a nut around the corner on the HS. SOme awkward gear placements after that but at least it gets technically easier. I managed to place 2 micro wires for the next 3 meteres that were purely psycological before finally placing a decent no1 nut and then another long runout to the top on another micro.
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βeta: Less gear on this route than would be expected. I protected the hard start by placin a nut around the corner on the HS. SOme awkward gear placements after that but at least it gets technically easier. I managed to place 2 micro wires for the next 3 meteres that were purely psycological before finally placing a decent no1 nut and then another long runout to the top on another micro.
drcorbasisgod 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure this merits 5a when compared to Peacemaker or Pearly Gate. Still a good route though.
βeta?
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βeta: Not sure this merits 5a when compared to Peacemaker or Pearly Gate. Still a good route though.
SARS 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: That is, fell out. I didn't fall though, so it was ok.
βeta?
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βeta: That is, fell out. I didn't fall though, so it was ok.
SARS 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely VS 5a. Hard-ish moves at the start with rubbish gear until you're well established. First time I did this (2-3 years ago) all my gear stripped at 20ft.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely VS 5a. Hard-ish moves at the start with rubbish gear until you're well established. First time I did this (2-3 years ago) all my gear stripped at 20ft.
Owen W-G 2 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes at Cat Tro with some nice moves and good gear and rests at all the right places. Well protected HS 4c in my book and recommended.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the best routes at Cat Tro with some nice moves and good gear and rests at all the right places. Well protected HS 4c in my book and recommended.
Richard Horn 22 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route with good moves. Not overly protected though and take some micros.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route with good moves. Not overly protected though and take some micros.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 77
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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