Rockfax Description
A pushy little route up the steep rib and bulge right of The Chimney. Start at the base of the rib right of The Chimney. Climb the rib (bold) to a bulge. Make a difficult move over the bulge and continue to a ledge and junction with The Chimney. Finish up right as for The Chimney. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Suncream | 1 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: I found the gear to be fine. Finished as for the VD to the left, not sure if there was a 5a move if I'd finished further right but certainly not how I did it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found the gear to be fine. Finished as for the VD to the left, not sure if there was a 5a move if I'd finished further right but certainly not how I did it. |
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Albie | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Less gear on this route than would be expected. I protected the hard start by placin a nut around the corner on the HS. SOme awkward gear placements after that but at least it gets technically easier. I managed to place 2 micro wires for the next 3 meteres that were purely psycological before finally placing a decent no1 nut and then another long runout to the top on another micro. | ||
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βeta: Less gear on this route than would be expected. I protected the hard start by placin a nut around the corner on the HS. SOme awkward gear placements after that but at least it gets technically easier. I managed to place 2 micro wires for the next 3 meteres that were purely psycological before finally placing a decent no1 nut and then another long runout to the top on another micro. |
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drcorbasisgod | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Not sure this merits 5a when compared to Peacemaker or Pearly Gate. Still a good route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure this merits 5a when compared to Peacemaker or Pearly Gate. Still a good route though. |
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SARS | 26 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: That is, fell out. I didn't fall though, so it was ok. | βeta? | |
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βeta: That is, fell out. I didn't fall though, so it was ok. |
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SARS | 26 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Definitely VS 5a. Hard-ish moves at the start with rubbish gear until you're well established. First time I did this (2-3 years ago) all my gear stripped at 20ft. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely VS 5a. Hard-ish moves at the start with rubbish gear until you're well established. First time I did this (2-3 years ago) all my gear stripped at 20ft. |
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Owen W-G | 2 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: One of the best routes at Cat Tro with some nice moves and good gear and rests at all the right places. Well protected HS 4c in my book and recommended. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best routes at Cat Tro with some nice moves and good gear and rests at all the right places. Well protected HS 4c in my book and recommended. |
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Richard Horn | 22 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Excellent route with good moves. Not overly protected though and take some micros. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route with good moves. Not overly protected though and take some micros. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)