Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite! Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress.1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left.2) 4b, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge.3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left. Climb this to a ledge.4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to the top of the buttress.Descent - To reach the mainland stay roped up and traverse rightwards to a notch on the ridge. Step down on to a chockstone and make an awkward move to the other side. Head up to the notch and a junction with Pendulum Chimney. Descent from here is as for Pendulum Chimney. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs
South West VDiff-HVS
I want a Pasty!
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Grade: HS 4b ***
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