UKC

54m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite! Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress.
1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left.
2) 4b, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge.
3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left. Climb this to a ledge.
4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to the top of the buttress.
Descent - To reach the mainland stay roped up and traverse rightwards to a notch on the ridge. Step down on to a chockstone and make an awkward move to the other side. Head up to the notch and a junction with Pendulum Chimney. Descent from here is as for Pendulum Chimney. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , I want a Pasty!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Salvo1 16 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice little outing. We lead 1&2 and 3&4 pitches together to save time. Red wall pitch nice. Severe about right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice little outing. We lead 1&2 and 3&4 pitches together to save time. Red wall pitch nice. Severe about right

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High S
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Votes cast 53
High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 49
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrier's Tooth

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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