III, 650m. A classic route taking an amazing line - just look up from Chamonix town centre at sunset and you will instantly want to climb this. The west face of the Charmoz catches the evening sun and the Cordier Pillar is THE line.Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, take the path to Lac Bleu then follow a vague track climbing eastwards, directly towards the Petits Charmoz. Cross the moraine beneath the Glacier de Blaitière following the line of least resistance (occasional cairn) to reach the ridge coming down from the Aiguille de Blaitière Northwest Ridge. Cross the next bowl (more boulders but easier than the Blaitière moraine) in the direction of the Charmoz to reach the ridge overlooking the foot of the Nantillons Glacier. If you are going straight to the routes from the lift or the Plan de l'Aiguille hut, continue across the glacier, but if you are planning to bivi, walk up a good path along the ridge which leads to some superb bivi spots at the foot of the northwest ridge of the Blaitiére. The glacier is extremely prone to rockfall and, although it can be crossed high up, it is usually worth the extra effort of descending slightly and crossing level with the southwest ridge of the Aiguille de l'M - whichever way you cross, don't dawdle. Having crossed the glacier snout, head directly towards the Grands Charmoz and the foot of the route. 1) 4c. Follow a ramp up and left to a ledge.2) 6a+. Step right and climb the steep finger-crack.3) 5c. Drift right and then come back left to easier ground.4) 3b. Go straight up the easier ground to reach a corner.5) 6a. Climb the corner, which is marked by several pegs.6) 4c. Step right and climb a short, easier corner.7) 4a. Go up and right across easy, broken ground. 8) 5c. Climb the tricky corner-crack to an exposed belay.9) 5a. Continue straight up the wide corner-crack system.10) 6a+. Go straight up the left-facing corner and then traverse out left under a roof. A stunning pitch.11) 5c. Move left and climb the corner above.12) 6a+. Climb the steep corner/groove.13) 5a. Go diagonally up and right then come back left to belay.14) 5c. Go straight up the corner then traverse diagonally left.15) 5b. Take the right-leaning groove to easier ground.16) 3b. Go diagonally left for 10m then back right for 10m.17) 3b. Continue straight up easy terrain to steeper ground.18) 4c. Step right and climb a corner system.19) 5a. Move left and continue up corners.20) 6b. Go straight up the steep finger-crack.21) 5c. Climb slightly easier ground to the foot of a wide crack.22) 6b. Climb the crack, for which a large cam is vital!23) 5a. Continue straight up then move right into a corner.24) 3c. Climb the broken corner to the Charmoz summit ridge.It is possible to follow the summit ridge to the top of the Charmoz via a 50m pitch of 5a. If you do this, reverse the pitch and then abseil back down the route.Descent - The Cordier Pillar is nearly always abseiled since it allows the route to be climbed with minimal kit. The belays are fixed (and there are also numerous pegs and the odd bolt on the route too.) © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An awesome climb, following a series of interesting cracks to a two-thrid height ledge. From here you have some of the best climbing of your life to the top, from finger-locking to off-widthing, every kind of perfect jamming can be experience.
Addison, Cordier, Fagard and Jouty 06/Jul/1970.
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