UKC

17m.

Rockfax Description
The awesome roof-crack is a desperate struggle for most. An awkward groove leads to a poor rest, then undercut out left. The struggle to pass the lip will doubtless leave its mark one way or another. Easy jamming remains, if you have any steam left. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Wide Cracks , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , 50 of the Best , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , UK Sandbags , Crackageddon , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Sheff , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Crack Fueled Rampage

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ariegeois 16 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Birtles and I put the salt and vinegar on Jim's jamming scars in Stoney cafe that day - seemed a good way to clean and sterilise them. He yelped piteously! Sentinel's definitely more straightforward than Emerald. Sutty told me The Villain pissed up it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birtles and I put the salt and vinegar on Jim's jamming scars in Stoney cafe that day - seemed a good way to clean and sterilise them. He yelped piteously! Sentinel's definitely more straightforward than Emerald. Sutty told me The Villain pissed up it!
UKB Shark 22 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
Show beta
βeta: Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
John Kirk 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys

Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)

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