UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Start at the left arete of the cave entrance. Climb up for a few metres and move right above the cave to a good hole. Move up to a hand-rail and get stood on it. Continue to finish via a tiny groove.
An 8a variation climbs directly from the hand-rail to the lower-off, keeping left of the HBD bolts.

Ticklists

Cheddar Sevens , Classic UK F7s , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Brizzle goalz , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , The post lockdown local list , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , Recommended 7's 2021 , Bristol Bangers , Bristol sport , 7Bs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 29 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. One of the best in cheddar.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. One of the best in cheddar.

Logged Ascents

385 users have logged this
139 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Starscape

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

Loading Notifications...