20m. Indirect but great climbing all the way. Start up House Burning Down. Do a hard move to the incut holds and half rest on the rail out right. Make another hard move at the fifth bolt of HBD to stand on the rail. Thin technical moves allow you to shuffle your feet in a traverse left along the rail to a big step onto the cracked rail of Sing a Mean Toon, Kid. Finish up the slappy crux of SAMTK. In need of another bolt to protect the traverse left into SAMTK: clipping the fifth bolt of HBD will create rope drag problems and won’t protect the traverse. Better to ignore the fifth bolt and prep the route by hanging a long quickdraw off a 120 cm sling from the only independent bolt of Burning Ambition (up from and slightly left of the sixth bolt of HBD): this will be effective in protecting the traverse while avoiding rope drag.

Ally Smith 2006.


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Storm Warning

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Brean Down)
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