UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Start at an obvious flake-crack near the arete of Sentinel / Mescalito and just to the right of a line of staples.
Climb to the top of the flake (peg). Move up left to small jugs and pockets. Make a hard move up to a break. Another pull gains a good flake. Move up to a small roof and pull through rightwards to an easy finishing corner. Old 8mm bolt abseil station on the left or top out

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High E4
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High 6b
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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Video Kills

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))

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