UKC

3 pitches. Out of bounds during public and school holidays, please see Martin Crocker guide pg 10, or BMC RAD, + the link is at the top of routes list on here.

Three pitches: F6b, F6b+, F6b+ The first 45m pitch can be split at a 2-bolt belay.

Start below sunset buttress. Take the line of bolts on the far right (looking at crag). at top veer right. belay. Climb right again into groove. make tricky moves up groove and trend right along break. belay on top of pinnacle. take bolts and pegs up the wall in front of you until an awkward traverse left past two bolts and a finish up a chossy groove on to the terrace.

The steel belay/ abseil cable has now been removed from the tree. Couple of stakes in the ground to belay. Walk off now

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Cheddar Intermediate , Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Becky's ticklist , The Cheddar Nose , The post lockdown local list , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Somerset Sufferfest

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Bartle 7 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Final peg before top out is not to be trusted in my opinion. I pulled the draw once I'd clipped it and it definitely flexed/moved. Would strongly advise some small/medium nuts and or medium can if you've come sport climbing to feel 'safe'
βeta?
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βeta: Final peg before top out is not to be trusted in my opinion. I pulled the draw once I'd clipped it and it definitely flexed/moved. Would strongly advise some small/medium nuts and or medium can if you've come sport climbing to feel 'safe'
Brianthemessiah 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Too much friction to pull the rope down if you rap off the stakes at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Too much friction to pull the rope down if you rap off the stakes at the top.
jwtbids 1 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning climbing - be careful of abseiling off two spikes at top of last pitch, too much friction meant we had to prusik back up the rope and ask a third party to chuck it down after.
βeta?
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βeta: Stunning climbing - be careful of abseiling off two spikes at top of last pitch, too much friction meant we had to prusik back up the rope and ask a third party to chuck it down after.
boreal187 3 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really great route. The last pitch is now mostly bolted. I only saw 2 pitons. A bit run out towards the end by the second peg so moves feel a bit committing. Back it up if you can. The bolts lead to a solid tree we used for the abseil (there's also two metal stakes in the ground). It looked like you could easily walk off and join the trail above the gorge, we came down in three abseils, one to the start of the last pitch (utopia terrace), one to an isolated belay station 20 metres below the terrace and final one to the bottom just right of the start.
βeta?
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βeta: Really great route. The last pitch is now mostly bolted. I only saw 2 pitons. A bit run out towards the end by the second peg so moves feel a bit committing. Back it up if you can. The bolts lead to a solid tree we used for the abseil (there's also two metal stakes in the ground). It looked like you could easily walk off and join the trail above the gorge, we came down in three abseils, one to the start of the last pitch (utopia terrace), one to an isolated belay station 20 metres below the terrace and final one to the bottom just right of the start.
beardy mike 1 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Third pitch pegs. After the traverse left, there are two bolts, then two pegs and another bolt just before the rim if you climb left. I'd say the pegs are reasonable. I mean they're pegs not bolts, so might feel a bit sketchy but it's OK? The climbing is fine on that part, maybe 6a as opposed the stopper move after the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: Third pitch pegs. After the traverse left, there are two bolts, then two pegs and another bolt just before the rim if you climb left. I'd say the pegs are reasonable. I mean they're pegs not bolts, so might feel a bit sketchy but it's OK? The climbing is fine on that part, maybe 6a as opposed the stopper move after the traverse.
nlonsdale 26 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Wish I had read the feedback before the top of the last pitch. I used the rusty pegs in without gear to back it up. The last section is a relatively easy slab after the probable crux traversing on to it. You can abseil from the hoops at the top of the 1st/2nd pitch (at 45m) with a 70m rope
βeta?
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βeta: Wish I had read the feedback before the top of the last pitch. I used the rusty pegs in without gear to back it up. The last section is a relatively easy slab after the probable crux traversing on to it. You can abseil from the hoops at the top of the 1st/2nd pitch (at 45m) with a 70m rope
Angus Smith 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t be put off by talk of poor pegs; the climbing at the top is steady and they can easily be backed up by a wire and size 2 or 3 cam, and even without gear the fall with failed pegs would be safe, albeit long.
βeta?
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βeta: Don’t be put off by talk of poor pegs; the climbing at the top is steady and they can easily be backed up by a wire and size 2 or 3 cam, and even without gear the fall with failed pegs would be safe, albeit long.
Dickie91 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The final piton blew when I stupidly slipped off the top out. There is only 1 piton past the last bolt. It is very run out, take trad gear to protect!! Go steady!!
βeta?
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βeta: The final piton blew when I stupidly slipped off the top out. There is only 1 piton past the last bolt. It is very run out, take trad gear to protect!! Go steady!!
olliee 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: you can't quite reach the ground from the second abseil station, even with an 80m rope, so don't try!
βeta?
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βeta: you can't quite reach the ground from the second abseil station, even with an 80m rope, so don't try!
martinfindlay 7 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
βeta?
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βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
simonsnake77 1 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.
βeta?
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βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stone Cold Fever (WW)

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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