UKC

3 pitches. Out of bounds during public and school holidays, please see Martin Crocker guide pg 10, or BMC RAD, + the link is at the top of routes list on here.

Three pitches: F6b, F6b+, F6b+ The first 45m pitch can be split at a 2-bolt belay.

Start below sunset buttress. Take the line of bolts on the far right (looking at crag). at top veer right. belay. Climb right again into groove. make tricky moves up groove and trend right along break. belay on top of pinnacle. take bolts and pegs up the wall in front of you until an awkward traverse left past two bolts and a finish up a chossy groove on to the terrace.

The steel belay/ abseil cable has now been removed from the tree. Couple of stakes in the ground to belay. Walk off now

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Cheddar Intermediate , Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Becky's ticklist , The Cheddar Nose , The post lockdown local list , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Bs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
nlonsdale 26 May Show βeta
βeta: Wish I had read the feedback before the top of the last pitch. I used the rusty pegs in without gear to back it up. The last section is a relatively easy slab after the probable crux traversing on to it. You can abseil from the hoops at the top of the 1st/2nd pitch (at 45m) with a 70m rope
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wish I had read the feedback before the top of the last pitch. I used the rusty pegs in without gear to back it up. The last section is a relatively easy slab after the probable crux traversing on to it. You can abseil from the hoops at the top of the 1st/2nd pitch (at 45m) with a 70m rope
Angus Smith 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t be put off by talk of poor pegs; the climbing at the top is steady and they can easily be backed up by a wire and size 2 or 3 cam, and even without gear the fall with failed pegs would be safe, albeit long.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t be put off by talk of poor pegs; the climbing at the top is steady and they can easily be backed up by a wire and size 2 or 3 cam, and even without gear the fall with failed pegs would be safe, albeit long.
Dickie91 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The final piton blew when I stupidly slipped off the top out. There is only 1 piton past the last bolt. It is very run out, take trad gear to protect!! Go steady!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The final piton blew when I stupidly slipped off the top out. There is only 1 piton past the last bolt. It is very run out, take trad gear to protect!! Go steady!!
ollie_e 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: you can't quite reach the ground from the second abseil station, even with an 80m rope, so don't try!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: you can't quite reach the ground from the second abseil station, even with an 80m rope, so don't try!
martinfindlay 7 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
simonsnake77 1 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.

Logged Ascents

371 users have logged this
142 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stone Cold Fever (WW)

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

Loading Notifications...