Yet another superb Peak E4. Pitch 1 has the technical well-protected crux, but pitch two provides the real challenge.1) 6a, 22m. Easy climbing leads into the corner which is followed with increasing difficulty. Returning from a slight detour onto the left wall provides the crux shortly before the break is reached. Lash yourself in.2) 5c, 18m. Pull over the roof to gain the undercut flake and follow it strenuously on good holds, pausing on occasion to frantically stuff in gear. Save some courage for the final moves off the flake. Move left to follow Mortlock's Arete to finish. © Rockfax
FA. S.Bancroft, J.Allen 15.4.76. Their ascent was protected by several old pegs which makes it even more curious as to why they graded it E6. This grade put off repeats for years. 15/Apr/1976.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
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