One of the best limestone E4s in the country, especially if you include the top pitch.1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength. © Rockfax
FA. C.Mortlock, L.Noble, P.Hutchinson (aid) 11.62. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2. FFA. T.Proctor, G.Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. Nov/1962.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
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