Old trad entry, use new bolted entry to log ascents.
Gain and pass the thin crack direct via hard moves to gain a small flatty some way above the bulge. Once established on the slab, and suitably rested, move up and left to the ‘blank’ bulge above to gain a crucial layaway (close to Spanned Out Ballet). Use this to gain a good sloping jug far above. A couple of exciting moves leads to a good break above after which swing right into the short groove to an easier finish. Vicious, fingery and bouldery moves throughout; fortunately the near no-hand rest before the crux is very helpful. The cemented-in peg dates back to the first ascent.
Gain and pass the thin crack direct via hard moves to gain a small flatty some way above the bulge. Once established on the slab, and suitably rested, move up and left to the ‘blank’ bulge above to gain a crucial layaway (close to Spanned Out Ballet). Use this to gain a good sloping jug far above. A couple of exciting moves leads to a good break above after which swing right into the short groove to an easier finish. Vicious, fingery and bouldery moves throughout; fortunately the near no-hand rest before the crux is very helpful. The cemented-in peg dates back to the first ascent.
Keith Sharples 1984. Originally E5 6b with a mix of fixed and trad gear. Sep/1984.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Keith Sharples | 13 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: As bouldery as ever. It could well have lost holds at the start making the move above the thin crack harder but the top seems the same. The cemented-in peg remains for posterity! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As bouldery as ever. It could well have lost holds at the start making the move above the thin crack harder but the top seems the same. The cemented-in peg remains for posterity! |
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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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Route of Interest
Upping the Ante
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Robin Hood Quarries)